If anyone has a pair of f3 boards to sell i would be most grateful. It is really the amp I want to build and the boards are the only really hard part to get. I'm too new and clueless to make boards or build it without them.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Well, you need to play around with the forum Search tab. The F3 is AKA Zen V9, try searching for that. Try the vendor catagory under "Audio Sector". That's Peter Daniel and he has made boards in the past for the ZV9. Maybe he has more left?
There is also a swap meet catagory try there? 😉
There is also a swap meet catagory try there? 😉
Thank you. I havn't a clue how to make my own pcb, but maybe this can help someone help me further 🙂
Likewise I would be interested in zen v9 or F3 boards or some tips on how to get some done. I did scout the web but no joy.
Mike
Mike
Easy Way to Make PCBs
It's easy to make boards from the PDFs provided.
You'll need the following:
-Mono color (b/w) laser printer
-White copy paper
-Blank PCB (no treatment for photo etching)
-PCB etching solution. Available at Radio Shark or other electronic parts distributors
-Plastic tub larger than the PCB. Never use metal tub.
-Clothes iron
-Small drill bits. Bits should be the size of holes on PCB trace.
-Drill press, Dremel tool, or hand operated drill
-Rubber gloves and eye protection
Procedure:
Heat iron to very high setting. Believe cotton setting is correct.
Print reverse trace of PCB (writing is backwards) at 100% from the PDF to white copy paper.
Cut copies of trace to size.
Note: You may want to place two traces on one blanks PCB or you may want to cut PCB to size before transfering traces. Just be sure trace fits on PCB.
Place blank PCB on flat surface, place trace print out trace side down to copper side of PCB. Be sure to align it as best you can before placing iron on back side of trace. You want to heat entire blank PCB board as evenly as possibe.
Hold iron down on trace/PCB combo for 30-45 seconds with a good amount of pressure. Check to see if trace transfered by slowly lifting edge of copy paper. Only peel back enough to see if transfer started. If it did not transfer or is partially transfered, place iron on paper again for another 30 seconds, then check again by slowly lifting copy paper. Repeat until you see a good transfer of the trace to the copper board.
Let the board cool down. Fill plastic tub with etching solution. Use enough solution to submerge PCBs. Avoid contact with skin and clothes. Protect your eyes. With PCB in tub, lift one side of tub enough to move the etchant back and forth over the board. Do not spill etchant. This washing motion speeds up the process. Do this until all copper not covered by the trace is etched away. To see progress, you may want to use a platic fork or kife to lift PCB out of the solution. Never use metal in the solution other than the PCB.
When you are satisfied that the remaining copper is gone, wash PCB with water only. Water stops the etching process. Use rubber gloves to handle board. Wash until completely clean.
Slowly fill tub of etchant with water to dilute solution. Avoid overflow and spilling. Run water in sink and pour solution down drain. Dispose of etchant in accordance with rules in your country or state.
Read bottle for directions.
Dry board. Use alcohol and paper towels or cloth towel to remove black trace from PCB. Use fine grain sandpaper, soft metal wool or rough side of sponge to finish cleaning off trace to uncover copper trace.
Use parts placement PDF to see where holes are needed. Use appropriate drill bit.
You amy want to tin your board. There are methods to do so, but I haven't used any. There are pens available for PCB trace repair that you can used to cover copper.
That's it! Oh, remember to shut off iron! 😀
It's easy to make boards from the PDFs provided.
You'll need the following:
-Mono color (b/w) laser printer
-White copy paper
-Blank PCB (no treatment for photo etching)
-PCB etching solution. Available at Radio Shark or other electronic parts distributors
-Plastic tub larger than the PCB. Never use metal tub.
-Clothes iron
-Small drill bits. Bits should be the size of holes on PCB trace.
-Drill press, Dremel tool, or hand operated drill
-Rubber gloves and eye protection
Procedure:
Heat iron to very high setting. Believe cotton setting is correct.
Print reverse trace of PCB (writing is backwards) at 100% from the PDF to white copy paper.
Cut copies of trace to size.
Note: You may want to place two traces on one blanks PCB or you may want to cut PCB to size before transfering traces. Just be sure trace fits on PCB.
Place blank PCB on flat surface, place trace print out trace side down to copper side of PCB. Be sure to align it as best you can before placing iron on back side of trace. You want to heat entire blank PCB board as evenly as possibe.
Hold iron down on trace/PCB combo for 30-45 seconds with a good amount of pressure. Check to see if trace transfered by slowly lifting edge of copy paper. Only peel back enough to see if transfer started. If it did not transfer or is partially transfered, place iron on paper again for another 30 seconds, then check again by slowly lifting copy paper. Repeat until you see a good transfer of the trace to the copper board.
Let the board cool down. Fill plastic tub with etching solution. Use enough solution to submerge PCBs. Avoid contact with skin and clothes. Protect your eyes. With PCB in tub, lift one side of tub enough to move the etchant back and forth over the board. Do not spill etchant. This washing motion speeds up the process. Do this until all copper not covered by the trace is etched away. To see progress, you may want to use a platic fork or kife to lift PCB out of the solution. Never use metal in the solution other than the PCB.
When you are satisfied that the remaining copper is gone, wash PCB with water only. Water stops the etching process. Use rubber gloves to handle board. Wash until completely clean.
Slowly fill tub of etchant with water to dilute solution. Avoid overflow and spilling. Run water in sink and pour solution down drain. Dispose of etchant in accordance with rules in your country or state.
Read bottle for directions.
Dry board. Use alcohol and paper towels or cloth towel to remove black trace from PCB. Use fine grain sandpaper, soft metal wool or rough side of sponge to finish cleaning off trace to uncover copper trace.
Use parts placement PDF to see where holes are needed. Use appropriate drill bit.
You amy want to tin your board. There are methods to do so, but I haven't used any. There are pens available for PCB trace repair that you can used to cover copper.
That's it! Oh, remember to shut off iron! 😀
Last edited:
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this tutorial. However, I have neither the tools nor the patience to make my on pcb's, methinks.
Here's a crazy thought..you make them, I buy them 😀
Here's a crazy thought..you make them, I buy them 😀
It did cross my mind, but I have a ton of my own projects to complete. Sorry! 😀
If I had the Gerber files, I could send it out and have 4-6 made for around $140 US.
$25 each is a bit pricey.
F3 boards
I have a set of F3 boards and also a set of Z9 boards. Either set $30 shipped or both for $50 . I also have two power fets for sale $5 pair. One F3 board is partially populated with dale resistors.
I have a set of F3 boards and also a set of Z9 boards. Either set $30 shipped or both for $50 . I also have two power fets for sale $5 pair. One F3 board is partially populated with dale resistors.
Actually, I have some too. but, Two ch are built, and the other two are waiting... I want to keep/use them is all I'm sayin. I did do several PTP versions prototyping different configurations. It works out well with the small number of components and simple layout. "Air" dielectric is amongst the most desireable I read. Like a tube circuit 😀
I would love the F3 boards. I se tech-diy still have the F3 kits, so I think I'll go with that!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.