lhquam, permaneder and Tea-Bag: Which chassis(s) in our DIYAudio Store will accept your PCBs with no additional modification?
Best regards.
I do not understand your question. Just drill holes into the heatsinks and cut threads, e.g. M3 = 3mm, or any " equivalent
What he is asking is if your PCB will fit the heatsinks with pre-drilled and tapped holes - known as the Universal Mounting Spec.
It can be found here -- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/imag...sal/universal-mounting-specification-v2.1.pdf
OK Guys - I think I am being stupid here. I have been varying R13,R14 with fixed resistors in the range of .0125 to .1 ohms. I think I am getting a feel of what changes can happen and what I like.
Then I think about paralleling a 10 ohm pot with a .05 ohm fixed resistor and using that to tune in system. Doing the parallel resistor calculation with pot at low extreme (0 ohms) parallel combo should be zero at high extreme (10 ohms) it should be .049 ohms . Now parallel 1 ohm with .05 and you get .047. The remaining numbers (3-9 ohms) are between .047 and .049. Doesn't that say that the major variation in R13 and R14 (paralleled) is in the first few turns of a 15 to 20 turn pot and wouldn't it be better to just use fixed resistors or fixed resistors with a rotary switch ???
What am I missing?
Best
Bob
Then I think about paralleling a 10 ohm pot with a .05 ohm fixed resistor and using that to tune in system. Doing the parallel resistor calculation with pot at low extreme (0 ohms) parallel combo should be zero at high extreme (10 ohms) it should be .049 ohms . Now parallel 1 ohm with .05 and you get .047. The remaining numbers (3-9 ohms) are between .047 and .049. Doesn't that say that the major variation in R13 and R14 (paralleled) is in the first few turns of a 15 to 20 turn pot and wouldn't it be better to just use fixed resistors or fixed resistors with a rotary switch ???
What am I missing?
Best
Bob
The resistance of the pot isn't the main issue here because the impedance being driven is quite high: the 10K resistor (R5 or R6), the output FET gate capacitance, and the transformer interwinding capacitances. What you need to consider is the AC voltage between the FET source pin and the wiper of the pot. That voltage will be detemined by the AC current thru the source resistor times the source resistance times the wiper position, measured 0.0 at the source end to 1.0 and other end.
To see if I understand this correctly- if the 10 ohm pot ( variable 2nd harmonic) is set (totally CCW in my case) such that "all" AC current from cap will flow though the resistor and to the JFET source is this equivalent to the Output degeneration schematic - that is equivalent to having just the fixed resistor?
Now if the pot is set to the opposite extreme (totally CW) so that the flow is directly to the source pin - is this equivalent to the naked F6? or is there degeneration just because a resistor is attached?
If using the pot should both R13 and R14 be used.
Latest report
To my ears and in my system R14 =0 and R13 =.025 is the most listenable. Nice wide soundstage, good punch and excellent clarity
Best
Now if the pot is set to the opposite extreme (totally CW) so that the flow is directly to the source pin - is this equivalent to the naked F6? or is there degeneration just because a resistor is attached?
If using the pot should both R13 and R14 be used.
Latest report
To my ears and in my system R14 =0 and R13 =.025 is the most listenable. Nice wide soundstage, good punch and excellent clarity
Best
Yes, that is essentially correct.
The simplest way to think about the role of the pot is as follows:
The simplest way to think about the role of the pot is as follows:
- Let X be the ratio of the wiper-to-source resistance to the end-to-end pot resistance.
- The effective AC degeneration resistance is X times the source resistance.
to my ears and my experiments the .1 ohm and even the .05 ohm resistors made the sound flatter.
I really like this amp.
I am using it to drive my midrange (250-5000Hz) with Aleph on low end and F3 on high end. I have also used the Aleph 30, the F3, the ZenLite, the interstage transformer F4 and the F4 to drive the midrange and the F6 stays there. Soundstage, punch, naturalness and clarity are all totally there. If I ever go to a Klipsch horn system I believe this is the amp that I would use. Of course clearly the other amps are fantastic and if I hadn't heard the F6 I would be happy with any of them. Side note - the F4 and the "M2"F4 are great headphone amps.Best
Bob