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Old 2nd March 2013, 06:26 AM   #3801
zany is offline zany  Australia
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You sure you are in Melbourne? It's been sunny and clear all day...

Nelson's presentation of the F6 is on 6moons with all the schematics... take you pick.
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Old 2nd March 2013, 07:22 AM   #3802
generg is offline generg  Germany
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http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_f6_baf.pdf
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and the First Wtt is......a really First Class PSS Idea
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Old 2nd March 2013, 09:38 AM   #3803
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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naah

that's hoax

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Old 2nd March 2013, 10:27 AM   #3804
jamikl is offline jamikl  Australia
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Guess I'd better change my profile sometime zany. I'm in Moreton Bay, QLD now. Sorry for your confusion.
jamikl
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Old 2nd March 2013, 11:13 AM   #3805
Marra is offline Marra  United Kingdom
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Here ya go

http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/f...f6buffered.png
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Old 4th March 2013, 09:33 AM   #3806
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Other than input cascoding and more output pairs, do I need any other changes to increase rails to 36V with 1.7A bias ?
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Old 4th March 2013, 12:22 PM   #3807
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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most probably not

draw your schm and post here
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Old 4th March 2013, 12:55 PM   #3808
cjkpkg is offline cjkpkg  United States
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ARRGH!!!

Still humms very much. Connecting the 2 boards together helped a little but the humm still persists.

I redid the output wiring shortened and very tightly twisted.

I even tried another PSU board I had kicking around using MUR860 diodes in a CRC arrangement.

Must still reside in the grounding scheme.

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Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
just be sure that everything is as I wrote earlier :
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Old 4th March 2013, 01:52 PM   #3809
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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pics , again

use Dropbox or something , then just post links for download here , so you can use max resolution
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Old 4th March 2013, 01:52 PM   #3810
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
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Here is my approach to FW amps.
I believe ZM taught me this.

Take all ground wires from Speakers , line signal and and solder all to PS ground at back end, In the middle of the V+ and V- outputs. In that same area, take CL60 and tie that to chassis ground with bolt, and from there, bolt wire to IEC power cord ground.
So a CL60 seperates everything from direct chassis or IEC ground.

From here, shorting the inputs should lead to a quite amp. If not. Twist toriod, or cover toriod and or the Jensen's with MU-Metal (careful not to short).

Is your setup different?
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