Are you think of this sort of unit?
De-Lite Amplifier - diyAudio
Close but, not exactly, see attachments below.
De-lite uses a completely different, depletion mode MosFet.
As for light bulbs in Oz try this:
Linear Globes available from Bunnings Warehouse
Linear Halogen Lights, Light Bulbs & Globes | LightOnline
Have fun.
Attachments
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Bigger heatsinks are great at keeping thee Mosfets cool but if you live in a place we’re every day is 30C or higher bigger heatsinks will not reduce the amount of heat produced and injected inside a small room. Bigger heatsinks just remove the BTUs faster from the source spread it out over a larger surface area. It just feels cooler to the touch but is the exact same amount of heat being injected into the room at the same rate. Here in San Francisco at 9C to 17C that extra 200W heater is much appreciated.Bigger heat sinks rock.
That's why I picked a 5U Deluxe for my Aleph J build.
If/when I do an ACA again, it will live in a chassis with an oversized heat sink.
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The FANE is sensitve enuff, and has a fairly benign impedance curve. Reviews, even from those who like them, is mixed, you might find the top end hard to live with (i’ve not heard them yet). IIRC from modeling these — 6-70 litres is a quite small box for these with a big bump at the bottom, but again, something, some people like.
dave
dave
In a small hot office it would be worthwhile water cooling the PC and the amp with either a radiator or very large water tank outside the office. The kits for cooling PC are very well developed and cope with very high temps from multicore PC chips. It would be quite fun to adapt some of that gear.
This is correct. The centre pin of Q2 (the Drain) is connected to the + (positive) supply, so will be 19 or 24 volts depending on which power supply you use.
Thank you for answer. I have it up and runing now. It sounds beautiful
Salas “ Shape it further with a simple electrical filter. A coil or LCR trap in series.”
I’m just learning about crossovers By ready no hands on and only know enough to be dangerous and ,I don’t even know enough that I don’t even know. but I think with only one WATT power that LCR may devour some of the needed power.
That is why I recommended the LXmini. From reading Nelson’s published papers the way it works you can modify your signal before it gets to the amp not devouring any of the power that needs to get to the speaker the way passive crossovers do.
This sounds like a question that could be answered by Planet10
I certainly am stoked by the possibilities of the diyStore LXMini XO. But having experimented with simialr speakers so long ago i find it hard to get too excited about the actual speaker. Plus i look at the TL and think — what could be had if it had suffieicnt volume to be an optimum TL (not to mention no driver offset — a necessary compromise given the box format)
I love that Sigfried brought this very popular WAW to fruition, the world needs more WAWs.
It should be noted that a passive filter will typically cause wild impedance swings, which, when bridged, the ACA might have to high an output impedance that those swings impose themselves on the FR. I much prefer to tackle these issues where they occur with mechanical modifications.
dave
If not follow astromo's advise.
I will just go for a F5 with oversized heatsinks, and use the ACA in a cooler room with plenty of air flow.
I been fooling around with the aca camp. For few months.
Power supply tweaks that works. For linear crc
Add 1000-2200uf to the pcb input of pcb
At crc Add 1uf film cap.. Mkc is great (thanks zenmod) and + 10ufmkt+100uf low esr electrolytic
I'm using 90k +10pf feedback
It removes most of the glare, more liquid. And better focus. It sound awful for few days. So give it a week or two
Power supply tweaks that works. For linear crc
Add 1000-2200uf to the pcb input of pcb
At crc Add 1uf film cap.. Mkc is great (thanks zenmod) and + 10ufmkt+100uf low esr electrolytic
I'm using 90k +10pf feedback
It removes most of the glare, more liquid. And better focus. It sound awful for few days. So give it a week or two
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is there any way to add a vu meter or watt meter like the mcintosh amp
Kit like this:
2pcs 10 12V Analog VU Panel Meter 500UA Warm Back Light Recording Level Meter + Durable Driver Module Board + Cable Mayitr-in Current Meters from Tools on AliExpress
Was told 300Va for 6amps by the supplier of the low noise regulated board I purchased. Two 24 volt secondaries tied together into one output. DIY Audio universal boards requires less volts. Expecting two fully shielded Toroidy transformers to be delivered tomorrow. Will put some pictures up when it’s all up and running.
ACA Linear PSU
I built the ACA in monoblock form with a standard power supply residing inside the cabinets. I used an over spec'd, Antek torroid power transformer, to a diode bridge ,to 50,000uf of computer grade capacitors, to a 4mh choke ,to another 25,000 uf capacitor in each monoblock amp. I did not like the result. They sounded basically dull and lifeless. I then tore the psu's out, and instead went to outboard ,switching supplys. They sounded much better. Maybe because the cabinets were small ,and possibly, the transformer was too close to the input, don't know, but everything improved with the outboard switching supply. Soundstage opened up very nicely. I would recommend sticking to the outboard switching supply.
mg16
I built the ACA in monoblock form with a standard power supply residing inside the cabinets. I used an over spec'd, Antek torroid power transformer, to a diode bridge ,to 50,000uf of computer grade capacitors, to a 4mh choke ,to another 25,000 uf capacitor in each monoblock amp. I did not like the result. They sounded basically dull and lifeless. I then tore the psu's out, and instead went to outboard ,switching supplys. They sounded much better. Maybe because the cabinets were small ,and possibly, the transformer was too close to the input, don't know, but everything improved with the outboard switching supply. Soundstage opened up very nicely. I would recommend sticking to the outboard switching supply.
mg16
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