Amp Camp Amp - ACA

diyAudio Editor
Joined 2001
Paid Member
First rest assured we are busy making a lot more kits as fast as we can!


I haven’t checked again, but I believe the first board design was 1.0, the second, wth the addition of R15 was 1b, and then I’m not sure how 1.1 was different. I think 6L6s theory is correct.

The may be some minor changes to the next board but no circuit changes.
We’ll try to increment the labeling this time! Sorry.
 
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I noticed by watching this video:
YouTube
....that Wayne from PassLab has switched from the Silmics made in China to the green bi-polarized Nichicon (because of issues with the China made Silmics):
http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-es.pdf


First I thought that when Nelson mentioned "Wayne" it was a LCR bridge from Wayne Kerr Electronics......but there seems to be a real human behind.....


Interesting video with a lot of techincal stuff. The capacitor stuff is about 15:15 in the video. The 10uF / 25V green Nichicon has same physical size as the Silmics.....
 
I bought lots of boards back when it was 1.1

I'm about to order some more. What number do you want? :D

If Wayne sez it's time to switch to Nichicon, then there it is. I still have
thousands of the old Silmics, so I'll continue to use those until I run out.

Is it your old Silmics which are included in the kit?
I have the kit comming soon and if the included Silmics are the old ones it will be interesting to measure against the new ones I got from DigiKey.
Thousands of old Silmics......that is a lot.....then you have paid much less pr piece than us.....normal people.....when we just order 5 or 10 pieces....
Let us hope the old Silmics has a long shelf life.......
 
The ones as given away at BAF17 were marked 1.1

Yep, and that's what I have in mine. Complete with the (C) 2017. Except mine wasn't given away, I paid for 'em.

I realize that electrically, there is little to no difference, but when trying to help someone with an issue, it helps to know where things are, and how they are laid out, thus the request for a sane versioning system.

Don't worry, I'm fighting the same battle at work. I'm getting used to being right, but losing anyway. 8)
 
I bought lots of boards back when it was 1.1

I'm about to order some more. What number do you want? :D

I heard at BA that it was going to be ACA 2.0, but 1.2 would work just as well, and reflect the minor layout change, as 2.0 implies a major change. All I'm looking for is a change to help identify which layout the board is when people ask for help.

If you're up for a challenge, you could give it Avogadro's number (6.022140857 × 10^23) or a ten to twelve digits of PI, or... Nevermind. ;)
 
Simple ( 1.1a)

I heard at BA that it was going to be ACA 2.0, but 1.2 would work just as well, and reflect the minor layout change, as 2.0 implies a major change. All I'm looking for is a change to help identify which layout the board is when people ask for help.

If you're up for a challenge, you could give it Avogadro's number (6.022140857 × 10^23) or a ten to twelve digits of PI, or... Nevermind. ;)

Name it the same way they do in the software world or hardware like CPUs or graphics cards when they do a minor change. Add a letter at the end of the numbers this was the very first thing that came to my mind when I seen the board was exactly the same except for layout.
 
Well, if BA is anything like any of the numerous audio related "fests" and more casual regional shows I've attended, it's not hard to imagine that some of the brilliant ideas discussed after about middle of the first afternoon don't quite get remembered the same way when the engineering, or naming / version designation is committed to paper - or pixels and bits.

If minor revisions to silk-screen lettering is a low enough cost option at each production run, how about batch & date numbers? Then we can start comparing releases and selecting vintages for storage of NOS. ;)

I think I'm kidding .
 
I got this 24v off amazon and it seems to work well:

http://a.co/d0SAmVi

I wanted to get the additional benefits of 24V that NP spoke about during his burning amp talk. This seemed like the easiest way to do it.

My only concern would be if you just got one for both channels. If you meant one per channel (keeping with the dual monobloc theme of the original), that should be fine. As I understand it (and it is consistent with my build), each channel/board will probably pull about 1.5A each.

The closer you get to the max a power supply can source, the more you have to worry about how good a job their engineers did in building it (hard/soft knee, loss of regulation, overheating, marketing/spec-doctoring, ...). At 60% of max capability, you should be good. But you never know.