Thanks
I currently use a 35AH 12V AGM battery with a C-Tek charger to run both a DODD Audio battery powered DAC and tube buffer.
I wasn't sure if a similar setup using a 24V battery and C-Tek charger would work or if 24V would be too much for the Amp Camp Amps.
Mike
Look at post 2611. I posted a pick of my battery setup for the ACA's. It worked, but turned out not practical as the batteries drained too quickly. And then also took a long time to charge.
Bangla,
You're absolutely right. I am very happy with the volume. It is odd as well that the bass seems very deep, deeper than my Rotel amp. Yet I expect the low end freq roll off for both amps is much lower than I could expect from my little KEF IQ3's i.e. I would have thought that the speakers were the limiting factor. Hifi is a great mystery to me!
Niceonecyril
You're absolutely right. I am very happy with the volume. It is odd as well that the bass seems very deep, deeper than my Rotel amp. Yet I expect the low end freq roll off for both amps is much lower than I could expect from my little KEF IQ3's i.e. I would have thought that the speakers were the limiting factor. Hifi is a great mystery to me!
Niceonecyril
Hifi is a great mystery to me!
Hi Niconecyril.
Yes i agree.
Me learning in this stuff is only by tiny steps, but it's funny to understand a bit
more by reading and seeing what other doing here.
And if you learned one you stay confused with next question is open up....ha....ha....ha.
Your ACA heat sink can dissipate enough so you can test out running with 24V.
My Mini Aleph- clone Boards works fine, to my opinion, with 24V and can't go
higher 0,8A.
I also should add a fane here and to ACA like xrk is doing- he is right.
If you can test a light paper coned little Fullrange you should deliberate.
A little Tangband W4-1320- very linear, needs only resistor+ coil correction.
look at Lautsprecher Shop | Tang Band W4-1320SIF | Lautsprecher Selbstbau
and CT237 Lautsprecher Shop | Breitband Lautsprecher CT 237 Bausatz | Lautsprecher Selbstbau
That one you can place on desk to listen and not expensive.
Cheers Bangla.
Hi Niconecyril.
Yes i agree.
Me learning in this stuff is only by tiny steps, but it's funny to understand a bit
more by reading and seeing what other doing here.
And if you learned one you stay confused with next question is open up....ha....ha....ha.
Your ACA heat sink can dissipate enough so you can test out running with 24V.
My Mini Aleph- clone Boards works fine, to my opinion, with 24V and can't go
higher 0,8A.
I also should add a fane here and to ACA like xrk is doing- he is right.
If you can test a light paper coned little Fullrange you should deliberate.
A little Tangband W4-1320- very linear, needs only resistor+ coil correction.
look at Lautsprecher Shop | Tang Band W4-1320SIF | Lautsprecher Selbstbau
and CT237 Lautsprecher Shop | Breitband Lautsprecher CT 237 Bausatz | Lautsprecher Selbstbau
That one you can place on desk to listen and not expensive.
Cheers Bangla.
Bangla,
Thank you greatly for your suggestions. Yes, it is an idea to try upping the voltage. But mainly, I like your speaker suggestion. I will have a more detailed look at this. I need to translate the German! Not offering option on iPad.
Thanks again, you have got me thinking.... I was half thinking of F5, but there must be a lot more I can do with ACA and maybe speakers. I must enjoy what I have too!
Niceonecyril
Thank you greatly for your suggestions. Yes, it is an idea to try upping the voltage. But mainly, I like your speaker suggestion. I will have a more detailed look at this. I need to translate the German! Not offering option on iPad.
Thanks again, you have got me thinking.... I was half thinking of F5, but there must be a lot more I can do with ACA and maybe speakers. I must enjoy what I have too!
Niceonecyril
Hi Niconecyril
If you like read http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/283245-aca-active-speaker-project.html
Or look at Sonido Fullrange Horn Speaker the 145/175 runs without correction.
Also open baffle is nice or xrk- trisynergy horn project.
The OAudio Mr.Bauer answers your questions sure.
Have nice thought what you will do.
Cheers Bangla.
Yes.
If you like read http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/283245-aca-active-speaker-project.html
Or look at Sonido Fullrange Horn Speaker the 145/175 runs without correction.
Also open baffle is nice or xrk- trisynergy horn project.
The OAudio Mr.Bauer answers your questions sure.
Have nice thought what you will do.
Cheers Bangla.
Some questions on the ACA:
1) Assuming a source that has no DC, is C3 absolutely necessary? My source is transformer coupled.
2) Assuming a power supply that is well regulated and has vanishingly low ripple, is C4 necessary?
3) My 2SK170 JFET's are "B" grade matched, which means they have an Idss between 6 to 12mA. Is that okay given that my P1 is a multi turn 5k pot?
4) Assuming a supply with a rail voltage of + 24V DC, should I set the voltage at the drain of Q1 to be closer to 12V instead of 10V?
5) Is the power supply current requirement a constant 1.4A per channel?
Thank you!
Anand.
1) Assuming a source that has no DC, is C3 absolutely necessary? My source is transformer coupled.
2) Assuming a power supply that is well regulated and has vanishingly low ripple, is C4 necessary?
3) My 2SK170 JFET's are "B" grade matched, which means they have an Idss between 6 to 12mA. Is that okay given that my P1 is a multi turn 5k pot?
4) Assuming a supply with a rail voltage of + 24V DC, should I set the voltage at the drain of Q1 to be closer to 12V instead of 10V?
5) Is the power supply current requirement a constant 1.4A per channel?
Thank you!
Anand.
The larger diameter one seems more robust and only has two terminals so screw-ups are minimized. The downside of the larger diameter one is that the mounting hole you use needs to be enlarged about a millimeter. I have a tapered reamer which makes it a 10 second job. A Dremel or round file will work too.
OTOH the smaller diameter one has 3 terminals (one's not used ) to be wired exactly as shown in the build guide so that should also avoid screw-ups. If installed with one of the supplied washers on each side of the chassis wall it works with the existing holes.
Most of the wires are 16ga. But the purple and yellow are 22ga I believe.
OTOH the smaller diameter one has 3 terminals (one's not used ) to be wired exactly as shown in the build guide so that should also avoid screw-ups. If installed with one of the supplied washers on each side of the chassis wall it works with the existing holes.
Most of the wires are 16ga. But the purple and yellow are 22ga I believe.
Last edited:
I have a Dremel and probably a reamer in the garage.
Is there anything special about the wire other than gauge?
Thanks
Mike
Hallo nycafsr2000.
[QUOTE4) Assuming a supply with a rail voltage of + 24V DC, should I set the voltage at the drain of Q1 to be closer to 12V instead of 10V?
][/QUOTE]
What i have read (anywhere here) is on the setup point- given in instruction paper- is
reading 0,5V, so you have to add it to bias point with 24V it means 12,5V.
In my second build i use 20V and have setup to 10,5V there- it works.
Cheers Bangla.
[QUOTE4) Assuming a supply with a rail voltage of + 24V DC, should I set the voltage at the drain of Q1 to be closer to 12V instead of 10V?
][/QUOTE]
What i have read (anywhere here) is on the setup point- given in instruction paper- is
reading 0,5V, so you have to add it to bias point with 24V it means 12,5V.
In my second build i use 20V and have setup to 10,5V there- it works.
Cheers Bangla.
Bangla,
Thanks. That makes some sense. The standard design has a V+ of 19V DC and the Q1 drain is set at 10V (19/2 + 0.5) or
(V+/2 + 0.5) = Voltage at drain of Q1.
So in my case, with the V+ of 24V it will be 12.5V DC at the Q1 drain.
Anybody know the math/theory involved? I realize this is a mu-follower circuit and obviously the drain of Q1 is similar to the plate voltage on a tube.
Best,
Anand.
Thanks. That makes some sense. The standard design has a V+ of 19V DC and the Q1 drain is set at 10V (19/2 + 0.5) or
(V+/2 + 0.5) = Voltage at drain of Q1.
So in my case, with the V+ of 24V it will be 12.5V DC at the Q1 drain.
Anybody know the math/theory involved? I realize this is a mu-follower circuit and obviously the drain of Q1 is similar to the plate voltage on a tube.
Best,
Anand.
Has anyone experimented with input transformers in the ACA? I should be receiving one soon and with my tube background I'd love to be able to experiment more with the actual circuit than linear vs smps power supplies.
And outside of the hard to find Toshiba transistors is there any consensus on the best transistors to use in the ACA or are the stock ones shipped with the kit as good as it gets?
Sorry, new to transistors. Much more reading to do.
And outside of the hard to find Toshiba transistors is there any consensus on the best transistors to use in the ACA or are the stock ones shipped with the kit as good as it gets?
Sorry, new to transistors. Much more reading to do.