Sachin:
In his article Pass proposes a minimum of 2A per channel. You're clearly overtaxing that single one. . You need one of those you are using PER CHANNEL, 2 total, and that's cool because the sound should be better because you aren't overtaxing the PSU, and what happens on one channel won't affect wehat happens on the other: you then have 2 "monoblocks with remote supplies"! How audiophile is that!? Very......
We usually supply two 4.7A supplies with the 2 channel kits. They don't cost us much more and we feel it MUST be better to stress them less..
In his article Pass proposes a minimum of 2A per channel. You're clearly overtaxing that single one. . You need one of those you are using PER CHANNEL, 2 total, and that's cool because the sound should be better because you aren't overtaxing the PSU, and what happens on one channel won't affect wehat happens on the other: you then have 2 "monoblocks with remote supplies"! How audiophile is that!? Very......
We usually supply two 4.7A supplies with the 2 channel kits. They don't cost us much more and we feel it MUST be better to stress them less..
Pass DIY Addict
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I have a single 4.6A Dell brick for a stereo chassis and it works fine. It gets mildly warm after running all day.
Also, keep in mind that if you have done the "resistor trick" to increase the bias, each channel burns closer to 35w than 20w, so this will tax a single power supply even more greatly.
ACA#1
It's finally done. Sounds sweet. Thanks Eric, your build, the one were your daughter did most of the work, was the inspiration for this amp. I was going to leave the front blank but I had to acknowledge the genius and generosity that is Nelson Pass.
It's finally done. Sounds sweet. Thanks Eric, your build, the one were your daughter did most of the work, was the inspiration for this amp. I was going to leave the front blank but I had to acknowledge the genius and generosity that is Nelson Pass.
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Doh! why didn't I think of that? Well because I 'm not the one who'd have to drill a second hole! I think having 2 power bricks isn't that weird, and as I mentioned, has audiophile advantages. Some have suggested two inside the box, but why have them in there spewing noise everywhere, when you can have "remote power supplies" 
What is the nomenclature on that connector, and source? I think it looks grand, and is a nice alternative to other clunky looking power source connections I've seen on DIY amps.
Nice work!
John
Pass DIY Addict
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John: One of these might work well: Mic Connector - 4 Pin Jack | 27-720 (27720) | Distributed By MCM
Bert: Glad to be of some inspiration! It really was a fun project for both of us. It's been two years now and I still hear it playing every day in her room, so I think it was a good choice... LOVE that wood panel up front! I'm working on a pair of enclosures (Pearl 2 and DCB1) and am thinking of getting some nice exotic hardwood to make a matching set.
Bert: Glad to be of some inspiration! It really was a fun project for both of us. It's been two years now and I still hear it playing every day in her room, so I think it was a good choice... LOVE that wood panel up front! I'm working on a pair of enclosures (Pearl 2 and DCB1) and am thinking of getting some nice exotic hardwood to make a matching set.
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Hi John
They are 16mm dia, Stainless steel XLR kind of connectors available in 2,4,6,7 and 10 pin configuration. I buy them (male female) from my local Electronic store at less than a dollar.
They are same as Eric posted a link. I use them in various projects like phonostage, preamps etc.
Sorry for going offtrack.
Regards
Sachin
I was looking to buy a new set of ACA boards from the DIY store and noticed that it's now version 1B, with minor improvements. I thought the revision to this board was going to incorporate the 2.2K mod but I don't see that on the board. Well, actually, I don't see a BOM for that board so I can't tell if it's there or not. Just counting the resistors, it looks to be exactly the same as the one that Nelson posted about way back when: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diyaudio-com-articles/214808-amp-camp-amp-1-a.html Could someone set me straight? Do I need the classic BOM with a 2.2K resistor kludged on top or is this somehow incorporated and what is the change to the BOM? Thanks for any and all help.
Interesting. I could have swore the photos I looked at a week or two ago had A spot for R15. I was comparing the ones I got to what was currently in the store.
Did you buy the version 1B boards? If so, do they have a spot for R15?