Yet another F5 building log - Page 13

dimkasta · 12:45 PM

True. But the shaft is longer to keep the shield about 1,2mm apart from the chassis. And I am pretty sure that the powder coated shield is not that conductive either.

Nevertheless, a clean and robust build is always a good idea.

Plus one point to my thought of using wood for the bottom instead of aluminum

labjr · 27th June 2012, 01:01 PM

Seems a litte pricey for what it is.

dimkasta · 27th June 2012, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by labjr

Seems a litte pricey for what it is.

Perhaps...
But you have to admit... they score some nice WOW-factor points

dimkasta · 11th December 2012, 02:32 PM

I recently started work on this again after a brief 6month break

I will come back with more photos soon

6L6 · 11th December 2012, 02:43 PM

Glad to see your return!

Some projects take longer than you plan.

(Ask me sometime about my 300B amp that has been a 10yr project...)

dimkasta · 11th December 2012, 03:20 PM

Well I ended up without a preamp, so I had to fill in that spot first to be able to continue enjoying music

Plus I am also working on a transport, a phono, a turntable and a pair of speakers and I am optimizing my DCB1. Not to mention work and my attempts to get a proper social life, so it still might take a while

doolav · 11th December 2012, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6L6

Ask me sometime about my 300B amp that has been a 10yr project...

how is that (SQ-wise) compare to F5?

6L6 · 11th December 2012, 04:50 PM

As the F5 actually works, it's miles better than the 300B!

AndrewT · 11th December 2012, 04:55 PM

No sound always loses the "sound competition".

Sometimes no sound wins the "sound quality competition" !!!!

CanAm Man · 13th December 2012, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dimkasta

I would love some input on my chassis design......

You might want to check out this F5 build, for chassis ideas:

Another F5 build--beautiful music, different drummer

27th June 2012, 12:35 PM	#121
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	True. But the shaft is longer to keep the shield about 1,2mm apart from the chassis. And I am pretty sure that the powder coated shield is not that conductive either. Nevertheless, a clean and robust build is always a good idea. Plus one point to my thought of using wood for the bottom instead of aluminum Last edited by dimkasta; 27th June 2012 at 12:45 PM.

11th December 2012, 02:43 PM	#125
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	Glad to see your return! Some projects take longer than you plan. (Ask me sometime about my 300B amp that has been a 10yr project...) __________________ llustrated Build Guides - Pass Pearl 1 - Pass B1 - - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - -O2 HPA - - Pass F4

11th December 2012, 04:50 PM	#128
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	As the F5 actually works, it's miles better than the 300B! __________________ llustrated Build Guides - Pass Pearl 1 - Pass B1 - - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - -O2 HPA - - Pass F4

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27th June 2012, 01:01 PM	#122
labjr diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: MA	Seems a litte pricey for what it is.

11th December 2012, 02:32 PM	#124
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	I recently started work on this again after a brief 6month break I will come back with more photos soon

11th December 2012, 03:20 PM	#126
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	Well I ended up without a preamp, so I had to fill in that spot first to be able to continue enjoying music Plus I am also working on a transport, a phono, a turntable and a pair of speakers and I am optimizing my DCB1. Not to mention work and my attempts to get a proper social life, so it still might take a while

11th December 2012, 04:55 PM	#129
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	No sound always loses the "sound competition". Sometimes no sound wins the "sound quality competition" !!!!

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