Yet another F5 building log - Page 10

AudioSan · 18th June 2012, 10:38 AM

the way the diodes is set up, it is not possible to screw them in place

AndrewT · 18th June 2012, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioSan

the way the diodes is set up, it is not possible to screw them in place

Why not?

AudioSan · 18th June 2012, 10:53 AM

the screw heads will face each other. and the sinks are taped.
well. one can screw the diodes wel in place before soldering them,

AndrewT · 18th June 2012, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioSan

the screw heads will face each other. and the sinks are taped......... one can screw the diodes wel in place before soldering them,

the sinks are tapped.
Yes, always fix the devices mechanically and finally before soldering the leadouts.
And use untapped sinks. Or drill them out.

dimkasta · 18th June 2012, 11:33 AM

Again, the main disadvantage of the these clips vs screws is their smallish mechanical strength. You can relatively easily move the heatsink around. That s why I added pads on them to be sure that nothing funny will happen. The anodized aluminium sink part is also not conductive, but better to be safe than sorry.

The tight space is not such a problem since the diode legs can be carefully bent a bit so that you can screw the sinks and then bent them back up straight. Better to do that before soldering the caps though...

Pre-attaching them is not such a big deal in this case, since they are one per diode, so you do not have to align many parts together before soldering them. You can just screw them whenever you want.

dimkasta · 18th June 2012, 05:06 PM

I would love some input on my chassis design.

I am thinking of using a wood bottom (~40mm thick) and same front and back.
Bottom will be 40x40cm (plus heatsinks on the sides) and height 16,5cm.
Top cover will be 1cm thick glass.
Sides will be 4 modushop heatsinks.

I will also add some ventilation slots on both the bottom wood and the glass. and maybe even raise the glass 1cm to allow some breathing.

gmurray618 · 22nd June 2012, 05:56 PM

I hope this isn't too off topic, but I'm beginning to amass the parts for this beautiful amp and, well, I don't have the knowledge to choose replacement transistors. This thread and the others like it are really valuable to me (this is my first real project - except for a follow the directions kit) because I can see how others have done things and your pictures and notes make it seem so much more possible. I Really appreciated the parts list at the beginning of this thread (dimkasta, I assume that those parts you ordered lots of are just to have plenty of extras for general purpose.)
Also how do you like your cap arangement on p. 9? I'm planning on using 1 PSU and filing it pretty much as you did (2x4 x22,000uF). Anyone have have any thoughs on that note?

So I'm looking for the six chips and where to buy them (mouser?). (should I double or more the order so if I screw up ...)

All advice is GREATLY appreciated and please keep it simple your talking to a newbie.

Thanks in advance,
George

dimkasta · 01:41 AM

Well the list is kind of a mess right now. It includes many parts that I ended up not ordering, but keep in there for refference as I might use them at some point.
And yes I usually order more than required to care for accidents or future projects (It ends up cheaper in the long run this way).

About the transistors, send a pm to h_a (Hannes). He can prepare a kit of matched transistors for you. He can also explain some stuff on their use.

Since you (like me) do not have much experience in this, I would suggest sticking as close to F5 manual as possible. Of course more capacitance in the PSU is always nice, and the 2x4x22KuF is a nice upgrade without creating problems with excess inrush currents etc.

noSmoking · 23rd June 2012, 03:28 AM

Hi,
Is a thread going for F5c from the store ,I have read Nelson's manual and was going to raise the ps to 50v ....but since reading,looks like that's going to be 32v instead,and will 200x40x165 heat sinks be enough or get bigger ones?
Got the F5c built except a few parts so any error's before the switch gets thrown,where does R116,115 go?No place on board and If in the sch, I'm going BLIND,lol
Thanks alot!
NS

noSmoking · 23rd June 2012, 06:56 AM

hi,
Disregard the above all is on First Watt Site!

18th June 2012, 10:38 AM	#91
AudioSan diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Trondheim	the way the diodes is set up, it is not possible to screw them in place __________________ aleph P1.7 pre. F5 power amp. CDpro2(need DAC). Vivaldi8 speakers

18th June 2012, 10:53 AM	#93
AudioSan diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Trondheim	the screw heads will face each other. and the sinks are taped. well. one can screw the diodes wel in place before soldering them, __________________ aleph P1.7 pre. F5 power amp. CDpro2(need DAC). Vivaldi8 speakers

23rd June 2012, 01:39 AM	#98
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	Well the list is kind of a mess right now. It includes many parts that I ended up not ordering, but keep in there for refference as I might use them at some point. And yes I usually order more than required to care for accidents or future projects (It ends up cheaper in the long run this way). About the transistors, send a pm to h_a (Hannes). He can prepare a kit of matched transistors for you. He can also explain some stuff on their use. Since you (like me) do not have much experience in this, I would suggest sticking as close to F5 manual as possible. Of course more capacitance in the PSU is always nice, and the 2x4x22KuF is a nice upgrade without creating problems with excess inrush currents etc. Last edited by dimkasta; 23rd June 2012 at 01:41 AM.

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18th June 2012, 11:33 AM	#95
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	Again, the main disadvantage of the these clips vs screws is their smallish mechanical strength. You can relatively easily move the heatsink around. That s why I added pads on them to be sure that nothing funny will happen. The anodized aluminium sink part is also not conductive, but better to be safe than sorry. The tight space is not such a problem since the diode legs can be carefully bent a bit so that you can screw the sinks and then bent them back up straight. Better to do that before soldering the caps though... Pre-attaching them is not such a big deal in this case, since they are one per diode, so you do not have to align many parts together before soldering them. You can just screw them whenever you want.

18th June 2012, 05:06 PM	#96
dimkasta Dimitris diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Athens	I would love some input on my chassis design. I am thinking of using a wood bottom (~40mm thick) and same front and back. Bottom will be 40x40cm (plus heatsinks on the sides) and height 16,5cm. Top cover will be 1cm thick glass. Sides will be 4 modushop heatsinks. I will also add some ventilation slots on both the bottom wood and the glass. and maybe even raise the glass 1cm to allow some breathing.

22nd June 2012, 05:56 PM	#97
gmurray618 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: New Jersey (Ocean City)	I hope this isn't too off topic, but I'm beginning to amass the parts for this beautiful amp and, well, I don't have the knowledge to choose replacement transistors. This thread and the others like it are really valuable to me (this is my first real project - except for a follow the directions kit) because I can see how others have done things and your pictures and notes make it seem so much more possible. I Really appreciated the parts list at the beginning of this thread (dimkasta, I assume that those parts you ordered lots of are just to have plenty of extras for general purpose.) Also how do you like your cap arangement on p. 9? I'm planning on using 1 PSU and filing it pretty much as you did (2x4 x22,000uF). Anyone have have any thoughs on that note? So I'm looking for the six chips and where to buy them (mouser?). (should I double or more the order so if I screw up ...) All advice is GREATLY appreciated and please keep it simple your talking to a newbie. Thanks in advance, George

23rd June 2012, 03:28 AM	#99
noSmoking diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Texas	Hi, Is a thread going for F5c from the store ,I have read Nelson's manual and was going to raise the ps to 50v ....but since reading,looks like that's going to be 32v instead,and will 200x40x165 heat sinks be enough or get bigger ones? Got the F5c built except a few parts so any error's before the switch gets thrown,where does R116,115 go?No place on board and If in the sch, I'm going BLIND,lol Thanks alot! NS

23rd June 2012, 06:56 AM	#100
noSmoking diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Texas	hi, Disregard the above all is on First Watt Site!

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