Aleph 4 parts

[tomchaoda]

I am trying to compile the Aleph 4 parts list from a published Aleph 2 parts list and the Aleph 4 service manual. I am not able to make sure the number of the following parts! I appreciate anyone who have made an Aleph 4 can help me find it out. I am sure this will also benefits many other DIYer. My question are:

1. in the schematic (service manual shown left channel), the IRF244 and 2 resistors do not have R? and Q? on it. Can anyone help me to identify it?

2. On the schematic shown (left CH), the R29 is 619, but also said the value is 523 on right CH. Anyone knows why? (it is not mentioned why in the manual)

Thanks.

Thomas

[Nelson Pass]

The Aleph 4 is the most poorly documented amplifier because
it is really an Aleph 2. Look there, and you'll see that the
schematic was cut and pasted.

As to the difference between R and L, maybe I was sitting
closer to one speaker at the time.

In any case, there is almost no difference in performance.

[Saibot]

Mr. Pass,

knowing that you recommends the Aleph 2 over other alephs. Which Aleph model comes second ?

I am planning on building one but I can't figure out which one to build... The Aleph 2 is not wife accepted i think, sorry...
Well, maybe a small fan/water cooled one in a single chassis

Since you mention Aleph 4 is almost the same as an Aleph 2 would this be the one to recommend next ?

Btw, how would you describe the difference, soundwise, between an A2 and A4. I've never listened to an Aleph. Only a DIY Zen.

/Tobias

[Mark A. Gulbrandsen]

Saibot,
I am having a problem with my 2's not due to a wife problem but because I recently moved into a smaller home...but in a nicer area.....The 2's are now in the room next to where I listen to music which necessitated much longer cables to and from through a common heat vent. Of course this room is small, where my computer is located, and heats up quickly!!

I am planning on building a smaller monoblock version of the 2's that will be water cooled. I am going to make my sinks from solid alumnium...or copper if I can afford it at the time, by drilling through the blocks lengthwise on a verticle mill using a long aircraft bit for the water flow paths. Then tapping the ends of the water flow paths for simple U connectors to couple them together. If I do this in copper they can be silver soldered U's instead, plus the copper would be more efficient at conducting heat. I may also make 2 sinks for each amp and mount the devices directly to the heatsink and then insulate the sinks from the chassis....huge thermal advantage here. The cooling fluid circulator will be located in the basement of my home so it is out of the way and the pump and cooling fan are not audible.

Mark