My F5 Lives!!!!!!!

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fab

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Forgive me for I am a noob, but I did a double-take when I read this. If the goal is 50 ohms, how does replacing two 100 ohm in parallel with a single 50 ohm produce a different feedback result or measurably (or even perceptibly) change the sound? Does this have something to do with the differences between the physical construction of resistors of different power dissipation ratings? If so, anyone care to enlighten me as to what exactly is going on here?

The original F5 has sets of 100 ohms in parallel giving 50 ohms. Peter Daniels schematics suggestion is to use a single 100 ohms thus the close loop gain is doubled. The feedback ratio is:
open loop gain / close loop gain
Therefore, the feedback is reduced.

Also the removal of the protection circuit does not change the gain of the amp.
 
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If you are interested in an F5 fan configuration, check out my build:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass...-build-beautiful-music-different-drummer.html

My only concern is that, even with higher bias, the MOSFETS and heatsinks run too cool.....!!

I'm hoping that by venting my top and bottom plates I'll get by. If not I'm familiar with muffin fans but would like something a little more discrete. As you might of read in one of my previous posts I hoping to measure the temp of my heatsinks to see if I'm in the safe zone.

Regards,
Dan :)
 
I have an engineer friend that I think has one of those fancy hand-held laser temperature measuring devices. I'm going to borrow it and get an actual reading on how hot my heatsinks get.

Regards,
Dan :)

I bought one of these $16 laser sighted infrared thermometers a while ago and it seems to work well for measuring amp temperatures. Plus, it is great for annoying the cats. :)

Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement

- Matt
 
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Very nicely wired, I wish my F-5's internal wiring was that neat!

Russellc

One thing I've done that makes my stuff much neater and easier to assemble is the use of stakons and terminal strips. My picture below isn't that clear but I think you can see what I mean.

fork.jpg
TStrip.jpg


F5D.jpg




Regards,
Dan
 
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I like the Euro style terminal blocks (as seen in the pic from ApexJr). These have the added advantages of not needing terminals on the wires, are easily divided into the required size, and are also completely immune to accidental contact by hand (and finger) once the stripped wire end is inserted and tightened down inside the barrel. (So they are quite safe for unwieldy 'prototyping' as well, and you can still probe the connection via the screw.)
 

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I like the Euro style terminal blocks (as seen in the pic from ApexJr). These have the added advantages of not needing terminals on the wires, are easily divided into the required size, and are also completely immune to accidental contact by hand (and finger) once the stripped wire end is inserted and tightened down inside the barrel. (So they are quite safe for unwieldy 'prototyping' as well, and you can still probe the connection via the screw.)

But they look like legos!
 
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I loved my Legos, and I attribute much of my early creative development to building things with the standard blocks. In fact, when sloping roof tiles, windows, etc. came along I felt those didn't belong, as they were too specific and limited the imagination. (I guess I was a fundamentalist Lego builder at 7 years old -- or just not into civil engineering -- ME's make weapons; CE's make targets...!)
Of course I made exceptions for useful pieces like hinges, rotating bearings, wheels, and ball and socket joints -- things that one could make into articulated vehicles.....
 
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