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Old 31st March 2012, 01:27 PM   #51
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Old 2nd April 2012, 03:26 PM   #52
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short C1 you don't need it

pull out R10 , you don't need it

for C3 use decent cap

for C2 use Silmic , bypass it with 100nF MKC (polycarbonat)
Hi!Zen

This Your suggestion has already been done!And i thank you!

short C1 you don't need it

pull out R10 , you don't need it


Now i need to do the second fase of modding

for C2 use Silmic , bypass it with 100nF MKC (polycarbonat)

Since i should buy the capacitors ,i would like to find an alternative to replace the electrolytic capacitor C2 that is not certainly the best choice for the passage of the signal(even in a feedback),might suggest me a better alternative?
I read that someone has used in aleph j some K73-16 (from 40 to 60 uF) I would be happy to know your opinion on this theme.
Thanks in advance!
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Old 2nd April 2012, 03:30 PM   #53
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Silmic is good for Papa

it's good for me too , especially bypassed with MKC

just say that most expensive Blackgate isn't better in that position

been there , done that

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Old 2nd April 2012, 03:54 PM   #54
tonimxp is offline tonimxp  Italy
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Quote:
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Silmic is good for Papa

it's good for me too , especially bypassed with MKC

just say that most expensive Blackgate isn't better in that position

been there , done that

So.... if i would use one of these for c2 (i have these in my home)

ELNA CE-BP 220uF 16V BI POLAR CAPACITOR *NEW*
Number ebay item: 260815852652
Or these
Nichicon BP 220uF 25V MUSE ES BI-POLARIZED for Audio Capacitor Caps
Number ebay item: 140618205767

With 10nF mkc in parallel,do you think the result would be less than Elna Silmic 2 capacitors ?
If not what kind would prefer between of two mentioned above?
Thanks.
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Old 2nd April 2012, 04:11 PM   #55
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just go for any of these

they're good enough



differences can be , anyway ........ if any , just in realm of personal preferences
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Old 2nd April 2012, 04:30 PM   #56
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I've removed C1 and R10 and bypassed C2 with a .12uf MKP and it's an improvement. I'm assuming removing C1 is probably the biggest reason...my guess anyway. Also reduced R14/R16 to 866R. Next up is to replace the generic bridge rectifiers with FREDs....any maybe lower the source R's.

Last edited by boywonder; 2nd April 2012 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 2nd April 2012, 05:50 PM   #57
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I've removed C1 and R10 and bypassed C2 with a .12uf MKP and it's an improvement. I'm assuming removing C1 is probably the biggest reason...my guess anyway. Also reduced R14/R16 to 866R. Next up is to replace the generic bridge rectifiers with FREDs....any maybe lower the source R's.
Why have you reduced R14/R16 to 866R, have you problem with the bias?
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Old 2nd April 2012, 05:53 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Why have you reduced R14/R16 to 866R, have you problem with the bias?

See this thread starting at post 806:

The Mini-A
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Old 2nd April 2012, 06:21 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
See this thread starting at post 806:

The Mini-A
Ok!Thanks for infos!
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Old 2nd April 2012, 06:27 PM   #60
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toni relax

goal is to have 3-5mA there

you're safe with 2x1k5 if positive voltage is near 15V

so - everything from 750 to 1k5 will keep you in ballpark
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