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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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Quote:
Here is the Pass B1 with Obbligato PIOs. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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I'm pretty sure the info I've given is correct Andrew, does it make sense? The recommended pot value is 5Kohm and the cap value is 10uF.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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fig2 & fig3 show what you need.
Yes, +-60Vdc for the BalZen That +-60Vdc comes from the regulators. They need ~60Vac+60Vac from the transformer. Your 55Vac+55Vac will almost certainly do the job. Attenuating pots on the inputs and outputs will ruin the balanced impedance of this BalZen. Balanced impedance connections require very tight tolerances of impedances. Both resistors and capacitors must be very accurately matched. Last edited by AndrewT; 5th April 2012 at 01:16 PM. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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I see, you were on about the transformer, I thought you were answering my question about the coupling caps! Thanks for that all the same.
It seems the more I try to learn, the more I'm confused ! |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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re fig2 & fig3.
What are your specific questions? 10uF and a load of 5k//100k//receiver impedance will roll off the very low bass very slightly. If I were doing this I would follow Rane's (or maybe it's Jensen) advice: A far too big non-polarised Panasonic electro//good film cap, to ensure that the whole audio signal can get out. You still need to match these component values between the Hot and Cold (what Pins 2 & 3 see). |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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Most of the Pass Pre-Amps use a 1uF input cap, the B1 certainly does. Increasing its value simply decreases the low frequency roll-off point.
10uF is the normally specifed output cap. Again, you can increase this at extra cost. It is the quality of the caps that really matter in this instance. WIMA MKPs are good for the input cap and whatever you can afford for the output. 10uF MKPs will do but there are much better caps around for a good deal. If you look at my post #11. The original had MKS 1uF at the input and Polydrops at the output. The final version had Siemens MKP's at the input and Obbligato PIOs at the ouput. The FINAL, FINAL version had a Salas Shunt Reg PSU which did make a big difference. Last edited by KatieandDad; 5th April 2012 at 01:45 PM. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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PassDiy do the B1 PCB at a good price. Its also easy to DIY.
The B1 will work up to about +/- 15V or a single 30V supply. This is well outside of your traffo. Although it doesn't need it, it does work well with a regulated PSU. Last edited by KatieandDad; 5th April 2012 at 01:52 PM. |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Quote:
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