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Old 26th November 2012, 09:51 AM   #191
JBdV is offline JBdV  Netherlands
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Filing the 4 holes into one long slot by hand is probably pretty easy as well
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Old 26th November 2012, 10:33 AM   #192
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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Yes, or use a dremel just to chamfer one side of the holes.
They don't need to be deep (the chamfer), just 2 or 3 mm at most.

So technically not a real problem. And you also don't see them afterwards.


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Old 26th November 2012, 01:17 PM   #193
MarkLai is offline MarkLai  Hong Kong
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Try to filing the 3 pcb mounting holes by 2mm side way!
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Old 26th November 2012, 01:30 PM   #194
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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No, that will not work.
Becuase it is the centre distance between the terminal blocks that is incorrect.
You need to file the 8 holes meant for the terminal blocks.

This will of course be correct for Batch 2.


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Old 26th November 2012, 03:28 PM   #195
Horio is offline Horio  United States
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I don't have a countersink tool, but I can use a slightly larger drill bit to chamfer the hole. I'll try it tonight and see how it works. The hole locations are only slightly off, so it should only require a little modification to get the boards to fit. Like you said, the holes will be completely concealed by the boards anyway.
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Old 26th November 2012, 10:31 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EUVL View Post
This will of course be correct for Batch 2.
Patrick how far off are batch 2 pcbs?
If the wait isn’t that long I may hold off for the correction.

Last edited by johnwmclean; 26th November 2012 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 27th November 2012, 03:41 AM   #197
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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Greg, get yourself a countersink tool.
They are not expensive, and will do a much better job than a larger drill size.


Batch 2 PCBs

We have no real need to order them now, as the matching will be done by April.
But they will be done by us, as opposed to your which are a GB made in the USA.
So they will not look the same in appearance (e.g. blue solder mask as opposed to black ?).
If you want perfection then you need to have a completely new set.
Faster we can arrange those would be say some time January.


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Old 27th November 2012, 04:34 AM   #198
Horio is offline Horio  United States
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I tried the larger drill bit technique, and as you predicted it didn't do a very good job. Like you said, a countersink tool would do a much better job. Trying out the drill bit did make me realize that the required countersink is going need to be very large. A very large countersink is going to be required to provide a cavity deep enough and far enough out to allow for the pints to fit. In fact the outside edge of the countersink may reach the edge of the teflon bracket. I'm starting to think that the best solution is to either mill a single long slot for the pins, or use a spacer to raise the boards off the teflon block by a few millimeters.

I can still try the countersink method with the proper tool, but I won't have the time to pick up the tool until this weekend.
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Old 27th November 2012, 09:14 AM   #199
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Needle file to the one edge that fouls the soldered lead.
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Old 27th November 2012, 10:07 AM   #200
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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Long slot 3mm deep from both ends or through is probably the best solution, but requires a milling machine.
As said, those in Europe can send to me. The rest would have to send t Mark. Or Greg has access ?
Needle files or dremel is another. Not as perfect but fully functional.
Forget the countersunk for now.

New PCB is the easiest, but also most expensive. Also Jan already soldered, so no option for him.
Since the PCBs are from a GB I can only accept partial responsibility (that I did not spot the mistake in the Gerber).
But spotting the difference between 25mm & 28mm by naked eye is a bit beyond the average visual capability.
So we'll have to charge say 50% cost (cap boards only) plus postage if you want new PCBs, unfortunately.




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Last edited by EUVL; 27th November 2012 at 10:09 AM.
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