F5 Turbo Builders Thread

With the exception of cheapo button and screws(which were changed), table saw, chop saw, and sander.
Not proportional, but was going for small.
 

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Buzz that case looks outstanding how did you cut the slots at angle?
when I cut my heatsinks on my table saw they were not perfect.
I've got more to cut. If you don't have an aluminum blade find one with the lest amount of rake on the blade teeth and lube the blade I use wd40 be careful wear eye protection.
I think I have I have aluminum sliver in my eye not from table saw but related work.
 
Always were glasses. Had a friend lose an eye using grinder on aluminum. Invest in proper aluminum blade. Makes a BIG difference. Without proper blade, you get drift. Make multiple passes to compensate for blade. Better the blade, the fewer passes. I still mak quite a few. Next set will have top and bottom in receeses cut for flush mounting. Slots were cut with small circular saw. Router wilwork as well, but is more dangerous without proper clamping jig. I almost lost finger to router. Be careful.
 
i will not recomend that. use insulators that is ment for your type of mosfets. those can send a spark to the heatsinks. and thats something you don't want:)
take a look here after the 15th. : Assorted Components Kit, Modules items in Electronics-Salon store on eBay!

Audiosan

Do you mean there are too many holes on the insulator or mica is not a good insulator? I have bought a bunch of those expensive keratherm red pads for TO-267 (I think) BJT. I hope they will fit the mosfets used in the F5T.

Regards,
 
If you have some metalworking experience you can work to 0.2mm precision with a standard woodworking blade on the tablesaw and a set of files. You have to know how to handle a file. Most people don't. Also, when drilling, get a set of spotting drills. Most normal drills wander a bit when you start off the hole from a punched mark.
 
Had a friend lose an eye using grinder on aluminum.

Never, ever use a grinder on aluminium. The aluminium blocks the little holes in the material of the blade, heats up and expands, eventually leading to the cracking of the blade.

I will eventually get a proper aluminium blade. It leads to less hard work with the file after the cut. I used candlewax for the lubrication of the blade. And yes, that bloody aluminium chips hurt when they are flinging all over the place.
 
If you have some metalworking experience you can work to 0.2mm precision with a standard woodworking blade on the tablesaw and a set of files. You have to know how to handle a file. Most people don't. Also, when drilling, get a set of spotting drills. Most normal drills wander a bit when you start off the hole from a punched mark.

Slightly OT, but I need to learn more about working with aluminum. I thought a center punch, drop of cutting oil, sharp bit and proper rpm were the main things. Never could get the accuracy I wanted/expected. Spotting bit makes perfect sense - never knew such a thing existed. Below is a recent effort with a cordless hand drill (no spotting bit). It took a long time!

BK

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
If you have some metalworking experience you can work to 0.2mm precision with a standard woodworking blade on the tablesaw and a set of files. You have to know how to handle a file. Most people don't. Also, when drilling, get a set of spotting drills. Most normal drills wander a bit when you start off the hole from a punched mark.

that depends on the tools as much as the the one operating it.
0.2mm is 1/10 of the blade. dont you ever try to to convince someone that they can do that pressision without alot of cutting behind them. and a saw guide. even that might not be good enough.
 
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