F5 Turbo Builders Thread

[AudioSan]

i'm also building chassis my self. and for the turbo v3's. i'm looking at $500 in material. NOT inkl heatsinks. and NOT inkl CNC of logo. and after all that, i need to lay out a finnish.

 

[henryve]

That case that I made for the KSA50 worked out to about $500 in material, inclusive of the heatsinks. But then I must say Aluminium is cheap in SA compared to Europe. But I still need to cost in the CNC work for my front plate.

I will probably order my trafo from Amplimo or Toroidy and that is where you save again, since I have to factor in shipment. I am dissappointed with the quality of the 2 500VA trafos that a local company wound for me as used in the KSA50 clone.

For the F5TV3 monoblocks I am looking at maybe a 1KVA trafo for each monoblock, and that will cost me an arm an a leg from either of those 2 suppliers.

 

[bkdog]

i need to lay out a finnish.

What have you guys got against the Finns? I know a few and they are ok, they like reindeer etc etc...

[sorry, could not resist... ]

 

[AudioSan]

What have you guys got against the Finns? I know a few and they are ok, they like reindeer etc etc...

[sorry, could not resist... ]

 

[dazed2]

Yes you can never underestimate the cost and time involved in building the case.
The reason my original F5 took so long was that I built my own case. Borrowing time off a friends mini-cnc, tapping holes etc. took over 2 months!

This time, I plan to have Antek / Par Metal build it for me They even have the heatsinks to boot!

As for trafo, given the size of 1kVA anywhere of about $130 - $200US isn't bad.
No one said a F5T V3 is cheap

 

[Renron]

Check out Antek Transformers. 1kv @35V x4 is $100 USD + shipping.
Antek - AN-10435
I've used one of their TX in my F5 for years and it NEVER gets hot or buzzes.
No affiliation to Antek.
Ron

 

[PKI]

Any news on the store F5T pcb's?

 

[Renron]

Buzz,
Any news on ToeCutters?

 

[buzzforb]

I know beta testers have them and from what I understand, all is OK. THey may be working out specifics and BOM. The store has them, just havent released them officially.

 

[Marra]

Power up FE first and set drop across r5,r6 to 3.5V using P1 and P2. THis will allow you to figure out which way to turn the posts in order to adjust them. You will be starting at similar Vgs and will have solid footing for hooking up mosfets and firing them up.

After doing the above do you set the trimmers back to zero?

 

[buzzforb]

You can set bias post at about 3.5V and be safe to attach output fets. This will get you close to turn on voltage and allow less turning to achieve final bias. If you have FE boasting correctly, there is little you can do at this point to hurt the build. Before firing up check isolation of fets with MM set on Resistance setting, touch drain of get and sink at same time. It is the only thing left you could do wrong

 

[Marra]

Thanks Buzz.I've a way to go yet but pcb's are part populated and heatsinks drilled and tapped;I've just to decide on one or two chassis i.e seperate power supply casing.

 

[PKI]

Guys, is this a good sink for MUR3020W? 657-15ABP Wakefield | Mouser

 

[a.wayne]

You can set bias post at about 3.5V and be safe to attach output fets. This will get you close to turn on voltage and allow less turning to achieve final bias. If you have FE boasting correctly, there is little you can do at this point to hurt the build. Before firing up check isolation of fets with MM set on Resistance setting, touch drain of get and sink at same time. It is the only thing left you could do wrong

Cmon Buzz ,

Time to finish your best one yet , the 4pr is calling ...

 

[Renron]

PKI,
I have those sinks on my regulator diodes. They work well. make sure the enclosure has vent holes for fresh cool air. Keep them electrically isolated, then you don't have to use silpads or mica or whatever......

 

[buzzforb]

Cmon Buzz ,

Time to finish your best one yet , the 4pr is calling ...

AudioSan was suppose to take the heat off me. Gotta finish Salas SMD RIAA for brother this weekend. Guess i got to beat that damn F5TV3 bug after all.

 

[AudioSan]

hehe. i'm a little stuck at the moment damn that M3 tap. and alu.

 

[buzzforb]

I enlarge my fet holes, as an M3 tap is impractical IMO.

 

[AudioSan]

vel. M3 is practical over here

 

[buzzforb]

Its not about availability, but size. I would go with m5. Take necessary bolt/screw, put in fet hole, use speed of hand drill to reem out.Got perfect size hole and stronger bolt/screw.