F5 Turbo Builders Thread

yes you can. there is almost no heat. the point is to let the diodes have the same temp.
but if you run a low bias. then you might be better off running your diodes on the main sink. as they then will start conducting at a earlier point.
you even might be best off not to heatsink them at all:)
 
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We should ask Heatsink USA what aluminum they used, so the proper weld rod can be chosen.

Rush

I did ask Heatsink USA what aluminum they use: 6063 alloy, with either a T5 or T6 temper depending on profile. This is a very easy aluminum to weld. Of course this doesn't spread the heat, but does thermally connect the heatsinks and makes them one. Just avoid putting a devise on the welded area.

While you have the welder out, weld a heat spreader on the two heatsinks. With a continuos weld along the edge of a 3/8" or 1/2" aluminum bar 2" wide or so the full length of the heatsink. The weld would give the maximum heat transfer, far better than thermal grease if the bar was only about 2" wide.
At least I think it would be better than thermal grease. I haven't run any numbers, just thinking out loud.

Rush
 
yes you can. there is almost no heat. the point is to let the diodes have the same temp.
but if you run a low bias. then you might be better off running your diodes on the main sink. as they then will start conducting at a earlier point.
you even might be best off not to heatsink them at all:)

I have got some solid heatsinks. Want to push the F5T V2 to it's limit in terms of the bias and see where the '5 secs touch test' happens. Have a 1000VA toroid for stereo and 8 X 10000 uF per channel.
 
I have got some solid heatsinks. Want to push the F5T V2 to it's limit in terms of the bias and see where the '5 secs touch test' happens. Have a 1000VA toroid for stereo and 8 X 10000 uF per channel.

so you are thinking of a stereo V2 with commen trafo?
do the adjusments nice and easy. and let it worm while you monitor it.
what sec voltage are we looking at on this transformer?
 
I am going to show the monblock setup i have been talking about tomorrow. It is not ideal due to the unflat back of the 10.08 HS i got from HS USA. They are currently retooling to with a focus on a nice smooth and flat back for instances just like this. It is the reason they have been out of production for a while. Mine will work, but it puts the heatsink back on an uneven plane and will show up when the lid and bottom are added. It should still show a method that would allow the use of TeaBags boards, ChipAmp PSU, and possibly trado in single monoblock. I know this will open things up for some folks in building the larger versions.

Ok ...:)
 
Here ya go. Rough idea. Times two should give about 7-8" in the bottom of the case. Enough for big trafo.
 

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