F5 Turbo Builders Thread

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henryve

henryve

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Joined 2008
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coolnose

Member
Joined 2009
SRMcGee said:
Folks:

Please forgive what may quickly turn out to be a regretable inquiry, but I'm building my F5T BOM and would appreciate parts recommendations on two components -- the anti-oscillation caps (C3 and C4 on NP's schematic) and the 75 degree thermostat. I'm not knowledgable enough (yet) to understand the importance of any differences I've seen in the data sheets.

Regards,
Scott
Click to expand...

Scott,

the thermostat/thermoswitch needs to be a NC (normally closed, i.e. electrically conducting until roughly 75°C is attained) type, see it as a "last barrier" thermal security when your heatsinks are getting far to hot...

These switches wil reset automatically (bi-metal type), remembers me school long time ago...

I personnally like this kind of mounting type:

36TX21 2311 L230-40F - Thermostat, thermal cut out. NC.

!! For illustration purpose only, I havn't checked the data of this particular item, I have bought from this seller in the past though!!

Hope that helped!

Cheers,

Max

EDIT: Of course it should be rated for both current/voltage you are drawing on your secondaries...
 
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A

AudioSan

Member
Joined 2009
coolnose said:
Scott,

the thermostat/thermoswitch needs to be a NC (normally closed, i.e. electrically conducting until roughly 75°C is attained) type, see it as a "last barrier" thermal security when your heatsinks are getting far to hot...

These switches wil reset automatically (bi-metal type), remembers me school long time ago...

I personnally like this kind of mounting type:

36TX21 2311 L230-40F - Thermostat, thermal cut out. NC.

!! For illustration purpose only, I havn't checked the data of this particular item, I have bought from this seller in the past though!!

Hope that helped!

Cheers,

Max

EDIT: Of course it should be rated for both current/voltage you are drawing on your secondaries...
Click to expand...

this Depends on his setup. he may have a thermal control unit in a softstart also (like hypex). then he need a low voltage/current type. but still a NC.
that is the only sane way to do it. you don't want to run Your mains AC cable around the whole chassis.
 
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coolnose

Member
Joined 2009
I just bolt them on the heatsink, close to my IEC socket, not more then 10 cm of cable - worst case that is.

But yes, I havn't asked about the particular setup and assumed it was similar to NP schematics without any hyped (pun intended) softstart.

Now if one feels that 75°C is very hot for the "edge" of the heatsink, just go for 65°C or 70°C NC ....
 
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AudioSan

Member
Joined 2009
coolnose said:
I just bolt them on the heatsink, close to my IEC socket, not more then 10 cm of cable - worst case that is.

But yes, I havn't asked about the particular setup and assumed it was similar to NP schematics without any hyped (pun intended) softstart.

Now if one feels that 75°C is very hot for the "edge" of the heatsink, just go gor 65°C or 70°C NC ....
Click to expand...

you need one pr side in series. or one pr side pr transformer(if dual mono)
and they must be monted on the sinks hottest spot. wich is never close to IEC socket.
 
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coolnose

Member
Joined 2009
Late night argue battle...

:D

EDIT: Just by looking at the temperature grade NP choses for the thermoswitch it's clear to me that it is a "last barrier" before something catches fire in case the fuse doesn't blow - I am comfortable having a lower temp switch close to my IEC and on one side only.
 
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