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#541 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: PNQ, MH
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Quote:
Output Fets are from buzzforb and well packed in anti static bag. So they seems okay as part are matched quads. Last edited by omishra; 18th November 2012 at 09:08 AM. |
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#542 |
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diyAudio Member
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I dont think p3 is the problem. Even though it can effect equilibrium of FE, it cannot do so to that level. If jfets are showing proper currents across their source resistors. Thfe next thing is gate voltage for output fets. If that is in proper range, then outputs should be biased properly. We know they were before, but we had muted sound on output. I have had that happen only when something was wired wrong and signal was shunting to ground.
Alniva, check all the voltages again, starting at the FE. Let us know what they are. Who knows what happened after the change. Perhaps he burnt up a pot desoldering it. Had that happen before. I have never lost an output fet to static damage, but it definitrly sounds like one polariity is operable, and the other is off or shorted.
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#543 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
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Quote:
I have found one loose solder on one of the MOSFET source resistors and bad solder on centre leg of P3. I have now re-soldered every thing that is there on the board. Will passively measure all the lines and components and compare both for any anomalies and report back, before I connect them to Power. Cheers.
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DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
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#544 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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DC resistance of mosfets will tell you nada
test them , a per Pa's article
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my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
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#545 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
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Quote:
Thanks.
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DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
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#546 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: India
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Might I suggest checking the circuit instead of individual components, so you can eliminate the board or soldering as an issue.
Also do check the input cables. Insulation tears can cause shorts. Try connecting the inputs together at the board, from the working board all the way to the bad one. It's probably a simple oversight of some kind, probably before the signal even gets to the JFETs. |
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#547 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
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Quote:
Cheers.
__________________
DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
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#548 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
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OK, got the board that was giving problems (left channel), wired up again after fixing few dry solders and a loose connection at middle leg of P3.
Board biased nicely. Took it up to 200mV bias and let it settle. Then connected the speaker and played music. Seems to play well and without any gain issues, previously encountered, but I could hear distortion a little bit, compared to the other channel (right channel) which is playing music brilliantly like with any Pass amp, no distortion and full dynamics. Tried taking the problem channel (left) to bias around 350 mV. That's when I realized there is a problem. The trimmer P1 maxed out and could not push the bias anymore than 320 mA. Then twiddled around with P3 and there seems to be a big impact on output null and the bias levels. Altered a little bit of P3 and managed to set the bias to 350mA. Connected music and played - same problem as earlier case. No gain. Very feeble. Then turned the P3 the other way and connected, while monitoring the bias. Music played back normally (with little bit of distortion) and in a short while, smoke came out from 2SK170. Quickly disconnected the power and removed the board to examine. 2SK170 split open near the base of it's legs. I suspect the P channel MOSFETs are also gone. Luckily the speaker is a test one and nothing happened to it. Any insights what could have happened? May be it's a bad P3 component. Rest of the components are checked. Seem OK. I will park this board for a while to debug in leisure. I cannot afford blown MOSFETs. I have a spare PCB. Will stuff it up, double checking this time with presets and everything else. Cheers.
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DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
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#549 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sounds like you had bad jfet. Not being able to bias output stage is result of idss and can be dealt with using bigger pot. P3 really should not have that big of an effect on output. It is sized to provide trimming of the amount of degeneration on the FE fets, not major swings. Bad jfet or short is my quess.
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#550 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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I said a long time ago that the adjustment VR needs fixed resistors either side to limit the extent of adjustment. Seems folk either don't read or have a memory as bad as mine.
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