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Old 6th October 2012, 04:38 PM   #451
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Default Is the heat spreader needed

Buzzforb,

I am planning to build a F5 Turbo V2. I too have pretty much the same dimension heatsinks. 6 inches height and 8 inches deep. I would need to attach two of them to use it for one channel.

1. As V2 has two pairs, If we can stick each of the pairs on the different heat sink pieces, The heat sinks should dissipate the heat evenly. In such case I dont see the need of a heat spreader.

Under what reason does teh heat spreader act which is nesscary.

What is the material of Heat spreader. Is it Regular Aluminium. I guess copper can also be used for heat spreading I agree it is more expensive.

Thanks
Pandu
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Old 6th October 2012, 05:12 PM   #452
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True. My layout did not allow for this. My fets were all bunched togetjer and i was unable to spread them. As long as you have adequate sinking, and the like pais are thermally connected to allow for good couplong, you should be fine. One advanatage of a spreader is the possibility, if correctly sized and mated, to distribute heat over greater surface area of the heatsink. In theory. The heat spreader looks like one gigantic fet to the heatsink. One solid sink is superior, but hard to find. From there, it is all about comprimises.
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Old 7th October 2012, 01:41 AM   #453
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Default Heat spreader material

Buzzforb,

Thanks for your reply.

What is the thickness of the heat spreader.
What material is your heat spreader.
What precautions need to be taken to make sure the heat is transferred to heatsink

Did you weld the sinks together. As the heat spreader connects them together we may not need to weld them.


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pandu
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Old 7th October 2012, 02:11 AM   #454
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Its 3/8" aluminum. The newer L shaped vetsion has 1/2" aluminum attached to the heatsink. I used silicon thermal grease to help with heat transfer. The sinks were not welded. Easy way yo check efficiency of heat transfer is with temp probe. Check fet, then spreader, then sink. You want them all close in temperature. The closer. The more successful you attempt.
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Old 7th October 2012, 02:27 AM   #455
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I can't seem to figure out how to use the PSU Cap Diode Board in the DIY Audio Store with the F5. Does someone have any useful links? Thanks!
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Old 7th October 2012, 02:45 AM   #456
6L6 is online now 6L6  United States
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What exactly don't you understand?

How to stuff it? ( I.E., component selection )
How to hook it up?
How to mount it?

Also, what amp PCB are you using?





Have you read this guide? http://www.diyaudio.com/media/build-...guide-v1.0.pdf
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Old 7th October 2012, 02:49 AM   #457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
What exactly don't you understand?

How to stuff it? ( I.E., component selection )
How to hook it up?
How to mount it?

Also, what amp PCB are you using?



"How to stuff it?"

I don't want to do just have a list of items for me to solder on to the board. While that would be nice (if that's available) . I don't think I would be learning very much from it.

I'm planning on using the P-F5-2V20 from the DIYAudio store.

I have looked at that PDF. I'm looking at it again and SLOWLY going through it. I'll post if I have any questions.

Thanks for the help!

Last edited by alfa147x; 7th October 2012 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 7th October 2012, 04:12 AM   #458
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So reading this: Link

I have a few questions:
  • I can't seem to figure out the disadvantages / advantages of going with TO-247/TO-3P vs TO-220
  • The BOM says "Capacitor Voltage Rating depends on your Transformer's Secondary Voltage rating". Now I can't figure what rating transformer I need. Is it 42v and 0.6v? I'm looking at the F5 schematics and I see this:
    Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Thanks again for the help. I'll post more questions as I go.
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Old 7th October 2012, 04:14 AM   #459
6L6 is online now 6L6  United States
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The most important things to remember are -

Do the components fit the PCB mount holes, and also have no interference with each other?

Are the caps of big enough capacity and of a proper voltage rating?

Are the resistors of the proper value and wattage?

Does the component fit in the provided holes?

Are you planning on using a clip-on (or screw on) heatsink for the diodes, or mount them to the chassis? Do said heatsinks fit?
(Or will you just ignore the discrete diodes entirely and use a pair of bridges?)


There is a reason why fit is such a big deal - you will have a bazillion choices in manufacturer, value, voltage rating, etc... of the various components to use, and it will most likely work just fine. However, if something dosen't fit, it's a headache.
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Old 7th October 2012, 04:22 AM   #460
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Hi alfa147x,
At the store site it has a Bom there ,for the boards,and I just go through the Power Supply and write those down to order them,In Nelson Pass articles he tells of a beefier supply to use,I've attached it for you,
If you decide you want some more power,you can go to 32v on the power supply,If you want more you will need bigger heat sinks or a fan or 2,and need to cascode the input fets,You can also remove the limiters and protection circuits ,but don't short the outputs and keep the thermisters they stabilize voltages on bias from the heat on the heat sinks,I hope this helps you some just go slow and If your stuck ask here,someone will answer!
Have fun!
NoSmoking
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Last edited by noSmoking; 7th October 2012 at 04:27 AM. Reason: can't spell
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