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#451 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Buzzforb,
I am planning to build a F5 Turbo V2. I too have pretty much the same dimension heatsinks. 6 inches height and 8 inches deep. I would need to attach two of them to use it for one channel. 1. As V2 has two pairs, If we can stick each of the pairs on the different heat sink pieces, The heat sinks should dissipate the heat evenly. In such case I dont see the need of a heat spreader. Under what reason does teh heat spreader act which is nesscary. What is the material of Heat spreader. Is it Regular Aluminium. I guess copper can also be used for heat spreading I agree it is more expensive. Thanks Pandu |
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#452 |
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diyAudio Member
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True. My layout did not allow for this. My fets were all bunched togetjer and i was unable to spread them. As long as you have adequate sinking, and the like pais are thermally connected to allow for good couplong, you should be fine. One advanatage of a spreader is the possibility, if correctly sized and mated, to distribute heat over greater surface area of the heatsink. In theory. The heat spreader looks like one gigantic fet to the heatsink. One solid sink is superior, but hard to find. From there, it is all about comprimises.
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#453 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Buzzforb,
Thanks for your reply. What is the thickness of the heat spreader. What material is your heat spreader. What precautions need to be taken to make sure the heat is transferred to heatsink Did you weld the sinks together. As the heat spreader connects them together we may not need to weld them. Thanks pandu |
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#454 |
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diyAudio Member
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Its 3/8" aluminum. The newer L shaped vetsion has 1/2" aluminum attached to the heatsink. I used silicon thermal grease to help with heat transfer. The sinks were not welded. Easy way yo check efficiency of heat transfer is with temp probe. Check fet, then spreader, then sink. You want them all close in temperature. The closer. The more successful you attempt.
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|F6 Kit/Trasnformer GB Sign up sheet Closed,|Primrose GB Sign Up sheetClick Here ...Shape the sound , Man! |
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#455 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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I can't seem to figure out how to use the PSU Cap Diode Board in the DIY Audio Store with the F5. Does someone have any useful links? Thanks!
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#456 |
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diyAudio Member
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What exactly don't you understand?
How to stuff it? ( I.E., component selection ) How to hook it up? How to mount it? Also, what amp PCB are you using? ![]() Have you read this guide? http://www.diyaudio.com/media/build-...guide-v1.0.pdf |
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#457 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
"How to stuff it?" I don't want to do just have a list of items for me to solder on to the board. While that would be nice (if that's available) . I don't think I would be learning very much from it. I'm planning on using the P-F5-2V20 from the DIYAudio store. I have looked at that PDF. I'm looking at it again and SLOWLY going through it. I'll post if I have any questions. Thanks for the help! Last edited by alfa147x; 7th October 2012 at 02:52 AM. |
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#458 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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So reading this: Link
I have a few questions:
Thanks again for the help. I'll post more questions as I go.
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#459 |
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diyAudio Member
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The most important things to remember are -
Do the components fit the PCB mount holes, and also have no interference with each other? Are the caps of big enough capacity and of a proper voltage rating? Are the resistors of the proper value and wattage? Does the component fit in the provided holes? Are you planning on using a clip-on (or screw on) heatsink for the diodes, or mount them to the chassis? Do said heatsinks fit? (Or will you just ignore the discrete diodes entirely and use a pair of bridges?) There is a reason why fit is such a big deal - you will have a bazillion choices in manufacturer, value, voltage rating, etc... of the various components to use, and it will most likely work just fine. However, if something dosen't fit, it's a headache. |
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#460 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi alfa147x,
![]() At the store site it has a Bom there ,for the boards,and I just go through the Power Supply and write those down to order them,In Nelson Pass articles he tells of a beefier supply to use,I've attached it for you, If you decide you want some more power,you can go to 32v on the power supply,If you want more you will need bigger heat sinks or a fan or 2,and need to cascode the input fets,You can also remove the limiters and protection circuits ,but don't short the outputs and keep the thermisters they stabilize voltages on bias from the heat on the heat sinks,I hope this helps you some just go slow and If your stuck ask here,someone will answer! Have fun! ![]() NoSmoking Last edited by noSmoking; 7th October 2012 at 04:27 AM. Reason: can't spell |
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