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#311 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Mighty ZEN,
I decided to remove them and let it play ,It's stable and running fine now I'm not changing it ,I will be putting it in a case and move on to a BA-1 ,When it's going then I can put the F5 to run the highs,a F5C to do mids ,and a Ba1 or Ba3 to run the bottom end,,,,I'm getting close , I would like to Thank you guys for all your help and posts,I wouldn't have it without your sharing!!!!!!Hey!!!!! Didn't you say you were dumb.lol....post 292 ,lol. Iwish I wuz as dunb as U,lol. Last edited by noSmoking; 22nd July 2012 at 07:50 PM. Reason: added comment |
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#312 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I am using matched 2SK170 and 2SJ74 for JFETs, and assume the cascoding transistor base voltage should be satisfactory, as another kind member cautioned me that the drain current on the JFET may require me to vary the voltage somewhat. (I am cascoding with BC550 and BC560). Again, thanks to everyone who responded. I should have it powered up in a couple days. |
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#313 |
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diyAudio Member
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Here is single pair F5T on on of Ilquam's boards. USing all primo components. Used Mills as Rs instead of Fukushima, as I am still waiting. MP915 as feedback resistors, PRP 1W as Jfet Rrs, matched diodes and fets to 1mV. Will be listening to it and 2 pair F5t on TeaBag's boards being driven by B4 clone, hooked up to FAST system with Alpair 7.3 and Peerless XXLS in 80L box.
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#314 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Olalla, Oregon: Land of the 100 Valleys
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Quote:
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#315 |
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diyAudio Member
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No. The Feedback resistors are MP915. They have a clamp heatsink on them. The output Rs will be replaced with Fukushima. Anything with a small hole and i got to clamp retention over screw.
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#316 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Olalla, Oregon: Land of the 100 Valleys
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What part number are those "clamp heatsinks". Do they attach to the main heatsink? I cannot tell much from the image.
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#317 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'll have to look it up. Here are some more pics. You can see the naked MP915's. There are heatsinks that come with predrilled holes as well. Got the Thermistors on the bottom and pressure will keep them on the heatsinks. I did not use the current limiters.
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#318 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi guys,
Need a little feedback.... I Have a second set of heatsinks from my F5X build which i intend to use for a 2 pair F5TV3 ( or F5TV2 Cascode ? ) running at 32 V Rail voltage. Issue is that they are 300mm X 150mm X 10 mm as pictures below. I redesigned Toecutter's PCBs to fit the space available 150mm width. For that i put the power transistors and Diodes on separate boards connecting to driver board by copper standoffs. Main worries are naturally spreading heat...so diodes ( which should run cooler than transistors...) are on the inside and Fairchilds on outside . Would appreciate your opinions on viability of this solution . Some images of proposed mounting arrangement... |
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#319 |
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diyAudio Member
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If there is a way you can mount the diodes together, away from the heatsink, I think this would be best. I have been runnig a V2 for weeks and the diodes never even get warm. Subjecting them to the heat of the mosfets may equalize their temperature, but also introduces them to the possiblity of higher temps. by tying them together, you get farily decent temperature tracking, but avoid the heat. THeir performance is very much temperature based and I like the idea of keeping them relatively cool. THey will still be seeing the temperature inside the case, but this should be better than the heatsink.
Just my 2C Very creative design, BTW
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#320 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks for the input buzz but i have a question about the diodes, have you run them freestanding at the point they conduct heavily ?
Will they heat up a lot then...they should. Is it that they run cool because they have a huge heatsink and at low amp power are not being stressed so are cool anyway ? ...or if i let them freestanding , away from heatsink, when they are put under pressure at high amp power / high dynamic peaks ...they will blow up ? It's quite easy for me to mount them standing up between the top and bottom PCBs and get them away from heatsink, that is easy.
Last edited by CeeVee; 2nd August 2012 at 02:59 PM. |
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