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Old 10th May 2012, 09:05 PM   #231
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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diode related traces - made them thicker

see proper areas for +/- and gnd

connect xformr CT in same area as other gnds
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Old 10th May 2012, 09:54 PM   #232
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After ZM's mods, rotate the left two diodes 90 degrees clockwise, rotate the right two diodes 90 degrees anticlockwise, plus swap the position of the two diodes on the right side of the board to get rid of the links, then move the transformer connections to a vertical line.
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:09 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
you can bet that drivers in your arrays are soooooooooo stupid , that they're simply no aware are they connected in series or parallel

Are you saying that 2 or many drivers in series will not have effects from sharing the same box? Or that electrically, they do not suffer ill effects from the others being in series with them? Or are you suggesting those effects I spoke about, are not present at all?
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:11 PM   #234
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Thanks guys. Clearly a newb. Why is it better to have (+) and (-) in central area of pad over edges as shown. Also, why is it better to have a ll grounds at central point as long as they are on same pad? Last;y, if going double sided, do you want ground plane directly under positive and negative planes

Audio San,
Its not that the thermostats have not been in amps, just that I (NEWB!) have not seen them.
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:12 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
Will someone double check my PSU. I am calling it Lerch
Almost good
Stick the diodes on the vertical side instedad of botom

Line up the caps and it is done bigh thick and shoorth cooper traks is what is needed here(exactley as you did)

I am using different diode bridges so did not bother with finishing that part off.

I will be Happy to do it but you doing prety good job so no problem there...

Diodes on left side output on right red outline for 5 resistors and final smmoting film cap.

There is plenty of clearence for larger size caps
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:35 PM   #236
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I got picture of what I am using at the moment no need to remake those when I go turbo
sorry is only a partial
I may be able take better picture tomorow.
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:47 PM   #237
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If you are tring for single sided which is IMO better there is no going around one of the track on the diodes crossing over the other.
I spent few hours triing to figure out a way which alwaise turn up to be a Jumper wire.

If you go duble sided I would Mirror the tracks on the botom layer (apart for where jumper wire is ini't) current carring capacity is the point here no screaning

If you want screaning from nasties DC filter and chokes is way to go
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:52 PM   #238
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
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Originally Posted by flg View Post
Are you saying that 2 or many drivers in series will not have effects from sharing the same box? Or that electrically, they do not suffer ill effects from the others being in series with them? Or are you suggesting those effects I spoke about, are not present at all?
series or parallel , they don't care and they don't know

but amplifier knows , same as effect on cable gauge and critical length
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Old 10th May 2012, 11:08 PM   #239
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Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
Thanks guys. Clearly a newb. Why is it better to have (+) and (-) in central area of pad over edges as shown. Also, why is it better to have a ll grounds at central point as long as they are on same pad? Last;y, if going double sided, do you want ground plane directly under positive and negative planes

Audio San,
Its not that the thermostats have not been in amps, just that I (NEWB!) have not seen them.
aha. they are ginuiss in class A if you have a run away, they cut your power and save your amp and/or speakers
but alot of people(me inkluded) are not a fan of having AC wires run all a cross the amp in every direction so a smal signal one is the way to go
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Old 10th May 2012, 11:13 PM   #240
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Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
The diodes would seem to fit better with less output pairs vs more.
I think the trend would be in that direction also. I think it's important to start with something as close to F5 as possible. Remember the 1st watt? I understand wanting maybe 50-100Wrms classA. That's the area of what is easy enough to work out or WAF or whatever. You just have trouble dissapating the necessary heat that comes along with an amp any bigger, that is classA.
So, if you have a need for more power, say 10 times the power of Nelson, trying too build 10 of Nelsons amps to get 10 times the power will need at least 1500Wrms from your wall socket! Actually, the F5 is a fairly efficient design.
IMHO you can build a very good amp without much more complexity than the original that does 50-100Wrms in classA and 2-300Wrms by sliding into classB and shunt diodes. If your power supply and Voltage rails are configured accordingly. And your circuit Iq and FET Idmax are suitable. In other words, if the amp is as close as it can be to the F5 to get you your 50-100Wrms into your load, the amp will be stable at it's nominal design point but have the ability to momentarily output clean peaks 2-4 times what the classA parameters would support, without 2-4 times the heatsink. You are gonna need more heat sink. ClassB produces more heat with more output power unlike ClassA which does not get hotter when the music is playing. You also won't have double or tripple the electric bill from your air conditioner cooling the room these amps are heating up. Find a comfortable quality operating point that does not dissapate more than you can tolerate. I have had a 750W heater in my listening room. I only need to turn it up 1/2 way in the winter to heat the room!
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