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Old 17th April 2013, 08:39 PM   #1791
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Originally Posted by WalterW View Post
My last pic with the green terminalblock...what is better? Tinned leads, or just with the bare copper leads ???
What gives the lowest contact resistance? Also in long term?

Or should I not use them at all, and solder the leads directly on the PCB's?
But then my PSU is not so modular anymore

Walter
Walter, I solder directly to the boards. I hate those terminal blocks--adds to the "clutter" of a clean chassis (yours is.....!) and just becomes another potential spot for trouble.

I can't tell from your photos..... Do you have rubber grommets in your chassis holes, where you run your power supply/transformer leads from on side of the chassis to the other. If not, you might want to consider them--they are a cheap insurance for potential "high current to ground" problems later.

If you have already done the final wiring, I possible solution to still install a grommet--slice a suitable rubber grommet somehere on it's circumfrences (so you have a "C" rather than a full "O") and work the grommet into the hole around the chassis (using a small flat-blade screwdriver). With the proper grommet for the hole, the "C" should close back into an "O". Not a perfect solution, but close enough.
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Old 17th April 2013, 09:53 PM   #1792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalterW View Post
Making some progress...

My last pic with the green terminalblock...what is better? Tinned leads, or just with the bare copper leads ???
What gives the lowest contact resistance? Also in long term?

Or should I not use them at all, and solder the leads directly on the PCB's?
But then my PSU is not so modular anymore

Walter
Walter -
Your question is a good one. Up until lately I worked in a test lab testing electrical connectors. When you have a lot of pressure on the wire, like from a tightened down screw, it does not really make any difference if the wire is tinned, bare copper or even gold plated for long term conductivity. If the pressure is a lot lower, say under 100 grams, like in many connectors, then the plating matters much. I speak from experience subjecting connectors to acid vapor, thermal cycles, humidity cycles, etc. The Phoenix brand of green connector seems to be a very good one. The thing I suggest is to twist the strands on the end so they do not flatten, then tighten the screw, then wiggle the wire and tighten again until it won't tighten any more.
All that being said...if I do not need something to be modular or easily disconnected in the future, I solder my connections, making sure there is not any stress on the solder joint.
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Old 18th April 2013, 10:19 AM   #1793
Rixsta is offline Rixsta  United Kingdom
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Hi was just wondering, whats the word on VU meters ?
would they lower the sound quality ?
im planning on using this one on a seperate 2x 12v winding
1x New High quality stereo Driver PCB board for Panel VU meter | eBay
one of the 12v being for the VU meter and the other winding for the B1.
and the 2x24v for F5T

Any comments welcomed!
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Old 18th April 2013, 12:12 PM   #1794
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propitious View Post
Walter -
Your question is a good one. Up until lately I worked in a test lab testing electrical connectors. When you have a lot of pressure on the wire, like from a tightened down screw, it does not really make any difference if the wire is tinned, bare copper or even gold plated for long term conductivity. If the pressure is a lot lower, say under 100 grams, like in many connectors, then the plating matters much. I speak from experience subjecting connectors to acid vapor, thermal cycles, humidity cycles, etc. The Phoenix brand of green connector seems to be a very good one. The thing I suggest is to twist the strands on the end so they do not flatten, then tighten the screw, then wiggle the wire and tighten again until it won't tighten any more.
All that being said...if I do not need something to be modular or easily disconnected in the future, I solder my connections, making sure there is not any stress on the solder joint.
Ah thanks! That's the answer I was looking for.
I liked the idea to exchange Amp boards so I can try different Amps. But maybe I just solder the connections anyway...
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Old 18th April 2013, 12:17 PM   #1795
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Originally Posted by CanAm Man View Post
Walter, I solder directly to the boards. I hate those terminal blocks--adds to the "clutter" of a clean chassis (yours is.....!) and just becomes another potential spot for trouble.

I can't tell from your photos..... Do you have rubber grommets in your chassis holes, where you run your power supply/transformer leads from on side of the chassis to the other. If not, you might want to consider them--they are a cheap insurance for potential "high current to ground" problems later.

If you have already done the final wiring, I possible solution to still install a grommet--slice a suitable rubber grommet somehere on it's circumfrences (so you have a "C" rather than a full "O") and work the grommet into the hole around the chassis (using a small flat-blade screwdriver). With the proper grommet for the hole, the "C" should close back into an "O". Not a perfect solution, but close enough.
Propitious thanks for the tip, I have been looking for rubber grommets about 13-14 mm diameter with a height of 5 mm ( 3mm alu + 2 mm steel), but didn't find them that high.
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Old 18th April 2013, 12:19 PM   #1796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalterW View Post
exchange amp boards
Or have a 2nd soldered connection at a distance from the boards.
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Old 18th April 2013, 12:22 PM   #1797
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Hi Jacco,

How do you mean that?
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Old 18th April 2013, 12:39 PM   #1798
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Solder short wires to the pads of the boards, solder the other ends at a solder terminal block. (those are sold with a plastic cover, insulation and looks pretty)


(Tülley me dürch : Hellermann : HV1206 + HV1304. Sold everywhere, Conrad etc.)
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Old 19th April 2013, 12:18 PM   #1799
WalterW is offline WalterW  Netherlands
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Ah, thanks! I understand.

Than I solder my connections first, and when I want to switch boards, I can always do that trick
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Old 21st April 2013, 08:04 AM   #1800
Rixsta is offline Rixsta  United Kingdom
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Guys, I realy could appreciate any advice on speaker protection circuit that is suitable for this amp ? how about the DIYaudio ones ? or any others, with soft start would be nice.
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