Well, I was hoping that I can get some first hand info from you on the CLC filter. I constructed a CRCRC filter for my V3. See how it turns out.
Nice built!!
Regards,
Thanks. Sorry for the CLC filter. I will use them in another project, probably with an Aleph J. I was a bit afraid about the heat and the noise that they could have generated.
Regards
Bulgin Illuminated Power Switch
Another noob planning a F5V3 Turbo build. I'd like to use one of those cool Bulgin ring illuminated power switches (MP0045/1E2). I understand that this switch on it's own will not stand up to the current inrush of these amps so a relay circuit is needed. My question is how to do this with off the shelf components/boards. I've seen pictures on this forum of a build that Scott (SRMcGee) did where he uses one of these switches along with the DIY store soft start PCB. I've searched for information on how this would work but have not found anything.
Switch:
MP0045/1D2BL012 Bulgin | Mouser
I have seen another relay start circuit from AMB Labs that looks like it will work but I'd rather not add another circuit if it's not necessary.
The ε24 Power Switch Driver Circuit
If I am able to use only the soft start board, where do I tap into the switched 12VDC needed to illuminate the switch.
I'd be grateful if anyone can clarify this for me.
Another noob planning a F5V3 Turbo build. I'd like to use one of those cool Bulgin ring illuminated power switches (MP0045/1E2). I understand that this switch on it's own will not stand up to the current inrush of these amps so a relay circuit is needed. My question is how to do this with off the shelf components/boards. I've seen pictures on this forum of a build that Scott (SRMcGee) did where he uses one of these switches along with the DIY store soft start PCB. I've searched for information on how this would work but have not found anything.
Switch:
MP0045/1D2BL012 Bulgin | Mouser
I have seen another relay start circuit from AMB Labs that looks like it will work but I'd rather not add another circuit if it's not necessary.
The ε24 Power Switch Driver Circuit
If I am able to use only the soft start board, where do I tap into the switched 12VDC needed to illuminate the switch.
I'd be grateful if anyone can clarify this for me.
Another noob planning a F5V3 Turbo build. I'd like to use one of those cool Bulgin ring illuminated power switches (MP0045/1E2). I understand that this switch on it's own will not stand up to the current inrush of these amps so a relay circuit is needed. My question is how to do this with off the shelf components/boards. I've seen pictures on this forum of a build that Scott (SRMcGee) did where he uses one of these switches along with the DIY store soft start PCB. I've searched for information on how this would work but have not found anything.
Switch:
MP0045/1D2BL012 Bulgin | Mouser
I have seen another relay start circuit from AMB Labs that looks like it will work but I'd rather not add another circuit if it's not necessary.
The ε24 Power Switch Driver Circuit
If I am able to use only the soft start board, where do I tap into the switched 12VDC needed to illuminate the switch.
I'd be grateful if anyone can clarify this for me.
I used the following switch in conjonction with the soft start circuit from DIY Audio store. You need a 24V switch. This was a direct fit. I wired the LED of the switch directly on the spot for the LED on the soft start circuit.
http://www.vandal-resistant-switch.com/pdf/vandal-resistant-switch.pdf
Attachments
Very nice build, petefrontiers! I see you did all the metalwork yourself...nice
Walter
Thanks, Walter, that's what I needed to know. I don't think there's a published schematic on this circuit yet. Once I can see it it should help me understand the connection(s). The 24v part spec was something I didn't know so thanks for that.
Your build looks great, dig that switch.
Thanks. You will find the shematic of the soft start circuit here :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diyaudio-store/214000-power-supply-soft-start-board-v2.html
V3 has a only different board dimensions to fit holes of the chassis baseplate sold by DIY Audio, the circuit is the same.
F5V3 Turbo Monoblock is working
Many thanks to this forum and Nelson Pass.
I have done some measurement:
5,3Vrms in 4,1 ohm at 2,6A bias
orange: P3 optimised to minimum D4
green: P3 optimised to minimum D2
I am concerned about the PSU-Noise 50Hz, 100Hz and its harmonics.
On real speakers the PSU noise measured with my one ears is same as with my aleph X. BUT the aleph X has additional HF-noise. Both is not audible at the listing sosition, only about 10cm ears to speaker.
Trafo is 800VA 2x35V; 60mF-180mOhm-60mF; Rail is 46V at 2,16A bias
Any comments regarding the PSU-noise?
Many thanks to this forum and Nelson Pass.
I have done some measurement:
5,3Vrms in 4,1 ohm at 2,6A bias
orange: P3 optimised to minimum D4
green: P3 optimised to minimum D2
I am concerned about the PSU-Noise 50Hz, 100Hz and its harmonics.
On real speakers the PSU noise measured with my one ears is same as with my aleph X. BUT the aleph X has additional HF-noise. Both is not audible at the listing sosition, only about 10cm ears to speaker.
Trafo is 800VA 2x35V; 60mF-180mOhm-60mF; Rail is 46V at 2,16A bias
Any comments regarding the PSU-noise?
Another noob planning a F5V3 Turbo build. I'd like to use one of those cool Bulgin ring illuminated power switches (MP0045/1E2). I understand that this switch on it's own will not stand up to the current inrush of these amps so a relay circuit is needed. My question is how to do this with off the shelf components/boards. I've seen pictures on this forum of a build that Scott (SRMcGee) did where he uses one of these switches along with the DIY store soft start PCB. I've searched for information on how this would work but have not found anything.
Switch:
MP0045/1D2BL012 Bulgin | Mouser
I have seen another relay start circuit from AMB Labs that looks like it will work but I'd rather not add another circuit if it's not necessary.
The ε24 Power Switch Driver Circuit
If I am able to use only the soft start board, where do I tap into the switched 12VDC needed to illuminate the switch.
I'd be grateful if anyone can clarify this for me.
Waterdog54:
Sorry for the sluggish response. Like petefrontiers, I used a switch purchased from Langir (sourced through a group buy I hosted early last year: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/231271-large-illuminated-anti-vandal-switch.html) and the diyaudio store's soft start board. The good news is that Langir's switch options are pretty good -- configuring exactly what you want was easy and their prices were far more reasonable than the alternatives. Unfortunately, Langir has a 20-unit minimum for special orders. If you have the time, consider hosting another switch group buy -- I ended up selling 35 out of the 40 switches I purchased in about 2 weeks (and kept 5 for myself).
Regards,
Scott
No, the switch is always on or always off. Look at the schematic, the switch have to stay on to pass AC main.
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What does it measure?
Use a DMM to check the output DC offset using the 199.9mVdc and the output AC noise, using the 199.9mVac.
>1.0mVac = terrible.
<0.1mVac = very good.
Excellent is below the resolution of a 199.9mVac DVM.
What is unusual is the higher even harmonics of the mains frequency.
Usually 3rd dominates and the other odd are just higher than the adjacent even.
I wonder if this points to a particular wiring error?
