I guess the heatsink is the main stopper if we are talking about heat of Turbo specially if we are talking about the V3
.
In the hunt for a transformer I came across this unit:
Antek - AN-8225
Any thoughts on suitability for an F5T v2?
Antek - AN-8225
Any thoughts on suitability for an F5T v2?
So the good news is half of the amps ok the bad news 2 chips on one channel just fried and i mean the chips actually set on fire! haha (kind of amusing in its own way)
Everything was fine but as i turned the sound up from my laptop increased the volume some kind of buzzing from inside the amp then fire!
Exiting times, well the amp was working fine. I have no time to repair now have other things to attend to. My friend would like the amp complete so iv'e suggested he find someone near where he lives who can get the F5t going, he will probably pay whoever.
Me Im going back to making a second standard F5 for myself at some point which i seem to have no problems with.
Big thanks for all the help here
Everything was fine but as i turned the sound up from my laptop increased the volume some kind of buzzing from inside the amp then fire!
Exiting times, well the amp was working fine. I have no time to repair now have other things to attend to. My friend would like the amp complete so iv'e suggested he find someone near where he lives who can get the F5t going, he will probably pay whoever.
Me Im going back to making a second standard F5 for myself at some point which i seem to have no problems with.
Big thanks for all the help here
They do low voltage and have larger heater current wire . Have you ask them about a 20 volt 6 amp per section secondary . It does look like they have the raw materials to do it . Regardsa shame Edcor only makes tube amp trafos
but maybe they accept a GB order
OK - so maybe it -has- been 'that long' since I've built a power supply... wow. Dumb question here but I want to make sure someone's reading this who's done it before... I know this seems simple for most of you but I'd rather ask than say "oops".
Most of the transformers I am seeing available for purchase have dual secondaries - say 2x 24v secondaries. NP's power supply layout shows... I'm not sure? I'd like to follow the layout provided as much as possible..
So if my transformer is:
Primary:Secondary
120ac :24vac
B :B1
G :G1
Y :24vac
. :B2
. :G2
Where each Blue / Green pair = 24VAC... what is the schematic telling me to do here? As I see it now:
B1: > D1(FWD)/D2(REV)
G2: > D3(FWD)/D4(REV)
G1 & B2: > SHORT to 0V rail > GND
I hope this is clear and appreciate input.
Most of the transformers I am seeing available for purchase have dual secondaries - say 2x 24v secondaries. NP's power supply layout shows... I'm not sure? I'd like to follow the layout provided as much as possible..
So if my transformer is:
Primary:Secondary
120ac :24vac
B :B1
G :G1
Y :24vac
. :B2
. :G2
Where each Blue / Green pair = 24VAC... what is the schematic telling me to do here? As I see it now:
B1: > D1(FWD)/D2(REV)
G2: > D3(FWD)/D4(REV)
G1 & B2: > SHORT to 0V rail > GND
I hope this is clear and appreciate input.
I'm a bit confused with what you are asking... But I do think you are on the right track.
I would suggest looking at the PSU sections of these guides; I bet the answer is in there somewhere.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/188691-illustrated-guide-building-f5.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/234355-guide-building-pass-f4-amplifier.html
And remember, for a +/- 24V PSU, you need a transformer with 0-18V/0-18V secondaries.
I would suggest looking at the PSU sections of these guides; I bet the answer is in there somewhere.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/188691-illustrated-guide-building-f5.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/234355-guide-building-pass-f4-amplifier.html
And remember, for a +/- 24V PSU, you need a transformer with 0-18V/0-18V secondaries.
OK - so looking at my x-former secondaries each is a 24VAC pair of blue and green. It seems that Blue from one pair and Green from the other pair should go to ~ AC in - in this case one (Blue1) to D1 / D2 and the other (Green2) to D3 / D4
QUESTION (?) Green1 and Blue2 twist together and connect to the 0v / center / ground 'rung' on the 'capacitor ladder'. (?) QUESTION
Primary is 120v typical and is wired as indicated.
QUESTION (?) Green1 and Blue2 twist together and connect to the 0v / center / ground 'rung' on the 'capacitor ladder'. (?) QUESTION
Primary is 120v typical and is wired as indicated.
To keep the phases right, G1 and B2 should be tied together to 0 ground either before the rectifier or if you rectify both windings independently then the plus on one is tied to the minus of the other winding to create o ground between the rails.
See attached schematics of both.
Rush
OK - great and thank you @ all who helped. I'm probably going to stick to the single bridge setup. I would have thought a plain bridge rectifier would have sufficed but the MUR3020s are called for? Also - I typically see a small ceramic cap(s) wired in parallel with the larger electrolytic ones but they're absent from the schematics at hand.