F5 Turbo Builders Thread - Page 108

buzzforb · 16th January 2013, 03:24 PM

You can set bias post at about 3.5V and be safe to attach output fets. This will get you close to turn on voltage and allow less turning to achieve final bias. If you have FE boasting correctly, there is little you can do at this point to hurt the build. Before firing up check isolation of fets with MM set on Resistance setting, touch drain of get and sink at same time. It is the only thing left you could do wrong

Marra · 16th January 2013, 03:29 PM

Thanks Buzz.I've a way to go yet but pcb's are part populated and heatsinks drilled and tapped;I've just to decide on one or two chassis i.e seperate power supply casing.

PKI · 16th January 2013, 03:32 PM

Guys, is this a good sink for MUR3020W? 657-15ABP Wakefield | Mouser

a.wayne · 16th January 2013, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzforb

You can set bias post at about 3.5V and be safe to attach output fets. This will get you close to turn on voltage and allow less turning to achieve final bias. If you have FE boasting correctly, there is little you can do at this point to hurt the build. Before firing up check isolation of fets with MM set on Resistance setting, touch drain of get and sink at same time. It is the only thing left you could do wrong

Cmon Buzz ,

Time to finish your best one yet , the 4pr is calling ...

Renron · 16th January 2013, 04:06 PM

PKI,
I have those sinks on my regulator diodes. They work well. make sure the enclosure has vent holes for fresh cool air. Keep them electrically isolated, then you don't have to use silpads or mica or whatever......

buzzforb · 16th January 2013, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a.wayne

Cmon Buzz ,

Time to finish your best one yet , the 4pr is calling ...

AudioSan was suppose to take the heat off me. Gotta finish Salas SMD RIAA for brother this weekend. Guess i got to beat that damn F5TV3 bug after all.

AudioSan · 16th January 2013, 04:43 PM

hehe. i'm a little stuck at the moment

damn that M3 tap. and alu.

buzzforb · 16th January 2013, 05:18 PM

I enlarge my fet holes, as an M3 tap is impractical IMO.

AudioSan · 16th January 2013, 05:25 PM

vel. M3 is practical over here

buzzforb · 16th January 2013, 06:06 PM

Its not about availability, but size. I would go with m5. Take necessary bolt/screw, put in fet hole, use speed of hand drill to reem out.Got perfect size hole and stronger bolt/screw.

16th January 2013, 03:24 PM	#1071
buzzforb diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Burlington, NC	You can set bias post at about 3.5V and be safe to attach output fets. This will get you close to turn on voltage and allow less turning to achieve final bias. If you have FE boasting correctly, there is little you can do at this point to hurt the build. Before firing up check isolation of fets with MM set on Resistance setting, touch drain of get and sink at same time. It is the only thing left you could do wrong __________________ \|F6 Kit/Trasnformer GB Sign up sheet Closed,\|Primrose GB Sign Up sheetClick Here ...Shape the sound , Man!

16th January 2013, 04:06 PM	#1075
Renron diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Sacramento	PKI, I have those sinks on my regulator diodes. They work well. make sure the enclosure has vent holes for fresh cool air. Keep them electrically isolated, then you don't have to use silpads or mica or whatever...... __________________ "If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass.

16th January 2013, 04:43 PM	#1077
AudioSan diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Trondheim	hehe. i'm a little stuck at the moment damn that M3 tap. and alu. __________________ aleph P1.7 pre. F5 power amp. CDpro2(need DAC). Vivaldi8 speakers

16th January 2013, 05:18 PM	#1078
buzzforb diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Burlington, NC	I enlarge my fet holes, as an M3 tap is impractical IMO. __________________ \|F6 Kit/Trasnformer GB Sign up sheet Closed,\|Primrose GB Sign Up sheetClick Here ...Shape the sound , Man!

16th January 2013, 05:25 PM	#1079
AudioSan diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Trondheim	vel. M3 is practical over here __________________ aleph P1.7 pre. F5 power amp. CDpro2(need DAC). Vivaldi8 speakers


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16th January 2013, 03:29 PM	#1072
Marra diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Near Lincoln	Thanks Buzz.I've a way to go yet but pcb's are part populated and heatsinks drilled and tapped;I've just to decide on one or two chassis i.e seperate power supply casing.

16th January 2013, 03:32 PM	#1073
PKI diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011	Guys, is this a good sink for MUR3020W? 657-15ABP Wakefield \| Mouser

16th January 2013, 06:06 PM	#1080
buzzforb diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Burlington, NC	Its not about availability, but size. I would go with m5. Take necessary bolt/screw, put in fet hole, use speed of hand drill to reem out.Got perfect size hole and stronger bolt/screw. __________________ \|F6 Kit/Trasnformer GB Sign up sheet Closed,\|Primrose GB Sign Up sheetClick Here ...Shape the sound , Man!

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