F5 Turbo Builders Thread - Page 104 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th January 2013, 05:53 PM   #1031
diyAudio Member
 
buzzforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Burlington, NC
Quote:
Originally Posted by noSmoking View Post
Hi BuzzForb,
I was wondering what you did with your diodes for heatsinking,did you use a seperate sink? If so what size?
Thanks,
NS
Putting them on the sink will raise the temperature and make them conduct faster. I put mine off sink for the opposite effect. In truth, they may be somewhat unnecessary for my needs, but i was executing a proof of concept. Page or wo back is a pick of my V2.
__________________
...Shape the sound , Man!
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 06:05 PM   #1032
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrg2009 View Post
great post 6L6, are you building yours as a stereo in a 5U chassis?
Yes. It will be a v2 with the diodes, In the deluxe 5U chassis

Mine will be the one for the build guide, so both the standard and cascode FE will be illustrated.

The PSU will be built as close as possible to the schematic in the F5 Turbo article.

If it will work,(and I think it will) I will also make a monoblock v3 in that chassis.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 06:28 PM   #1033
a.wayne is offline a.wayne  United States
diyAudio Member
 
a.wayne's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Front Row Center
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioSan View Post
the efficiency of a class A amp varies. as with all other classes.
a push-pull class A is more efficient then a pure class A (as the aleph's)
there is no exact formula for this.
1.6KVA is good for 2channels of v3. but i would have build the amps as monoblocks and had a external chassis for the transformer.
A 100 watt class-a bias ( full class-a to clipping 8ohm) is pulling more than a 225 watts (consumption) idling .
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 06:57 PM   #1034
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
no no. then i'll just listen and never ever get the build finnished
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
you got it all backwards. you listen first. finish later
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 07:01 PM   #1035
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by a.wayne View Post
A 100 watt class-a bias ( full class-a to clipping 8ohm) is pulling more than a 225 watts (consumption) idling .
100W class A at 8ohm is a bias of 2.5A and about +/-45V rails.
45*2.5*2=225W (this is for 1 channel only ofcourse)
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 07:09 PM   #1036
diyAudio Member
 
buzzforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Burlington, NC
I think he is talking about having enough into harder loads, as most speakers do not meet the 8 ohm load mark. In that case you would run out of current with 2.5A
__________________
...Shape the sound , Man!
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 07:13 PM   #1037
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
yes. then you need more.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 08:43 PM   #1038
sts9fan is offline sts9fan  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MA
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzforb View Post
Putting them on the sink will raise the temperature and make them conduct faster. I put mine off sink for the opposite effect. In truth, they may be somewhat unnecessary for my needs, but i was executing a proof of concept. Page or wo back is a pick of my V2.
Putting them on their own small sinks will help though. Correct?
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 08:47 PM   #1039
nrg2009 is offline nrg2009  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit, born and raised in the netherlands.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
F5T v2 PSU BOM

Links to Digi-key

75C thermostat switch (not sure what is appropriate part)
I have used this switch, 75C normally closed rated at 6amps (partnumber: 317-1397-ND)
B12A07505AEDA0GE Cantherm | 317-1397-ND | DigiKey
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th January 2013, 09:11 PM   #1040
diyAudio Member
 
buzzforb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Burlington, NC
Quote:
Originally Posted by sts9fan View Post
Putting them on their own small sinks will help though. Correct?
That is what i did.
__________________
...Shape the sound , Man!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
F5 Turbo Circuit Boards chchyong89 Pass Labs 2343 Yesterday 07:43 AM
F5 Turbo is posted Nelson Pass Pass Labs 635 6th April 2014 10:51 AM
B1 builders thread Bas Horneman Pass Labs 694 25th February 2014 06:29 PM
F5 turbo problems Rob Dingen Pass Labs 17 11th January 2013 08:38 PM
F5 Turbo ............. if only !!!!!! a.wayne Pass Labs 23 21st January 2012 02:24 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:04 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2