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Old 20th September 2012, 12:45 PM   #1751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tehrkn View Post
Indeed, one can stack 7 resistors in the proposed PCB and make it work, but to be honest it will look really crappy and odd. And I know TeaBag has a knack for really tidy and cool looking PCBs (his DCB1 was outstanding and also his F5T boards, from what I can see from Buzz's pics and hopefully in his next GB see it from close since I'll probably try both DiyStore and TeaBag boards) which I'm trying to take advantage of! :P
it realy depends on how one do it but it can be odd.
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Old 20th September 2012, 12:47 PM   #1752
lhquam is offline lhquam  United States
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Location: Olalla, Oregon: Land of the 100 Valleys
Another approach to the CRC resistor(s) is to use a single MP-930 Caddock resistor mounted on the heatsink. No problem with power dissipation up to around 25 watts. Cost about $5 US from Digikey.
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Old 20th September 2012, 12:51 PM   #1753
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yes thats a nice option i can't say it is worth the while to change a whole PCB layout just for some resistors, when there is other options
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Old 20th September 2012, 01:18 PM   #1754
tehrkn is offline tehrkn  Greece
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No there's no need to change a good plan if the majority is satisfied with it. The rest will find a way and follow.
I'm just standing on the fact that these boards are supposed to catter for Buzz's F5T kit GB which already included fourteen .04R/3W Mills resistors @ 28,00 $ (no retail price but GB price). Also some people (not me though) got sixteen Nichicon caps although they can use 2 stacked pcbs, one with CRC resistors, the second one without CRC and diodes' section snapped off.
In any case I'm really glad and grateful for all the effort Teabag and the rest of the F5T diy crew is putting into this project and I'll be happy with any result they come up with.
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Old 20th September 2012, 01:48 PM   #1755
omishra is offline omishra  India
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioSan View Post
so it will be active cooling?(fans)

regarding spacing. that is good thinking also bare in mind the baseplate thickness(at least with passive cooling) the sinks can efficient spread the heat in a radius of x10 the baseplate thickness
First I will be trying without fans, as PCB lengths will be parallel to heatsink length. I will be keeping chassis like vertical tower, (heatsink lengths perpendicular to floor)

Like this -
Click the image to open in full size.

If still it heats up then some fan could be blowing air from bottom-up. But IMO that's distant but one possibility in well ventilated place as we face 47 deg C in summer.
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Old 20th September 2012, 02:21 PM   #1756
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at 47C ambient, fan cooling is a must for 55C max temp. you only got 8C rise to go on so i hope it's not THAT hot inside
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Old 20th September 2012, 02:29 PM   #1757
kroyin is offline kroyin  India
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By default in India it will be fan cooled ...we have 1~2 (depending on room size) 3.5 ft diameter ceiling fans :-).

And before any body laughs there is a 10-15c difference with them on an off (my measurement criteria is the stream of four letter expletives with hand on heatsink test :-))
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Old 20th September 2012, 02:31 PM   #1758
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those fans move alot of air
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Old 20th September 2012, 03:43 PM   #1759
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tehrkn View Post
Indeed, one can stack 7 resistors in the proposed PCB and make it work, but to be honest it will look really crappy and odd. And I know TeaBag has a knack for really tidy and cool looking PCBs (his DCB1 was outstanding and also his F5T boards, from what I can see from Buzz's pics and hopefully in his next GB see it from close since I'll probably try both DiyStore and TeaBag boards) which I'm trying to take advantage of! :P
Keep a few things in mind. I started a PSU design on paper awhile back because people where asking me too. I wanted to keep it compact to work with the design parameters of the F5T convertible board, mainly one that will fit into a smaller chassis, and run at a possible lower bias. Designs are often full of compromises. This board can support F5Tv2-3 scale of projects and smaller requirements one's. I used a single resistor slot to save space, 35mm caps to save space. At the time, I did not know of ToeCutters failure to deliver, nor did Buzz, otherwise things may have gone differently. Prototyping boards and stuff is not a cheap effort, and often requires a bunch of people to be on the ball and commited. Enough said.
Several of my efforts for Power supplies are done point to point, with copper bus bar or wire and perf boards, and I encourage Buzz's purchasers to give it a go, or save parts for another project.

La Ode does the actual Gerber layout for all the boards, including Salas designs. He does good work.

Above all, smile. It's a hobby.
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Salas Boards 2014 #2 On order |F5TC board and power supplies available PM | Hot-Rod DCB1 boards and kits available PM |Mesmerize kits available (no boards)
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Old 20th September 2012, 10:30 PM   #1760
beetle is offline beetle  Germany
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What do you think is the best? Low bias ~1-1.5A with 35V rails or high bias ~1.5-2A with 24V rails? Will bridge the F5t so the speakers will see double voltage any way. Will use 8 output devices per channel, F5 turbo V1. Will drive these speakers with it: Dynaudio Special Twenty-Five loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com

Dissipation is already crazy with this.
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