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Old 21st March 2012, 11:53 PM   #1111
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Without direct access to a surface grinder, there's the option of stopping by at an engine head reconditioning shop (if desired), shouldn't cost an arm and a leg (or a child's foot for some).

Or go for BS' hand lapping routine. (mirror, mirror, on the wall)
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Last edited by jacco vermeulen; 21st March 2012 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 21st March 2012, 11:56 PM   #1112
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Originally Posted by jacco vermeulen View Post
Without direct access to a surface grinder, there's the option of stopping by at an engine head reconditioning shop.
yes it is. but it depends on price, and if they want to do it. and if there are any close by
around here they'r not on every corner
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:00 AM   #1113
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Here's an inexpensive soft-start module on ebay. Probably cheapo relays but maybe can be replaced with some better ones.

Class A power delay soft-start temperature protection board 110V/220V | eBay
that one looks pretty good. if it had stanby/pushbutton and LED's i'll jump over it my self
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:00 AM   #1114
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Hi Jacco

Maybe you can explain properly why precision ground surfaces stick togheter.

Hand lapping does better

Use to do that at 12 helping out Franciscan Monk hand lapping telescope lenses.

And valve seats on marine diesels after that.

And another thing

I was going to make heat sink out of cooper but not enough scrap to make it possible in the UK

Cooper roofs are not that popular here but if there is a Cooper roof near you it means you can get the proper scrap

Silver braze he thin Cooper sheet to the thick base (afer you cuntersunk the bolt heads naturaly) and use a litle fan.

Easier than to weld Aluminium for me.

litle fan is must have for Cooper sinks (remember radiated heat is poor for mirrors)

Proper F5 turbo sinks material in Cooper is about £500 if one can not get scrap.
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:02 AM   #1115
lhquam is offline lhquam  United States
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The idea is to remove heat from the output device. Spreading it over a wide area is the way to do it.

Because the output devices run so hot, it only makes sense that the heat flowing through a small area between the output device and the heatsink is more concentrated than anywhere else. Thus is it would seem that reducing the thermal resistance at that point would be most beneficial.
I use mica insulators of 1-2 mils thickness. Here is a good reference about heatsinks, insulators, and transistor mounting: ESP - Heatsink design and transistor mounting
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:10 AM   #1116
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Why one would go to buy stuff from Ebay for then having to replace parts.

When even me with a few tips from intraweb can design its on thing.

And spend a few hours building things.

What pride one has at putting togheter IKEA like bits apart from telling its mates I have built this and did not even have to read the instruction manual

Maybe I shuld start selling stuff on Ebay insted of giving away info for free.

Only joking by the way so dont get oll titty lippy.



On a more serious note how would you like to buy my soft start I use 20 A rated relays?

And you know where to slag me off if things go wrong?

Ihquam that is most definitley a wery good link

You Lot certanly know that I am not that clever so you beter read ESP page I certanly did

Last edited by Bksabath; 22nd March 2012 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:14 AM   #1117
sippy is offline sippy  United Kingdom
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Hand lapping two bit of metal produces a finished surface (lots of care needed) that has very few 'peaks and valleys' - if you pull all the scratches out, your left with a surface which will expel air causing a vacume effect.........
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:16 AM   #1118
sippy is offline sippy  United Kingdom
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and engine heads should not be ground this way as there will be an easy path for the fluids/gasses to flow through.......
realy realy basic eng. theory

Like the boards Toecutter, well done
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:17 AM   #1119
labjr is offline labjr  United States
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that one looks pretty good. if it had stanby/pushbutton and LED's i'll jump over it my self
It can probably be modified to do what you need. The relays look like some made by Omron I've seen in appliances. I think they are universal standard sized, but not positive. Hard to beat for the money though.
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Old 22nd March 2012, 12:21 AM   #1120
a.wayne is offline a.wayne  United States
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Originally Posted by labjr View Post
Here's an inexpensive soft-start module on ebay. Probably cheapo relays but maybe can be replaced with some better ones.

Class A power delay soft-start temperature protection board 110V/220V | eBay
The price is scary ...... will it work .?


Copper is pretty pricey, better to save the money , fets are cheaper to buy if you let the smoke out, take the cash and buy copper options .. Big sinks, 10 -15 mm heat spreader , if that's not enuff ... Tits up ....
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