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#1081 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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have to say i agree with that
![]() 15mm base might be a good one for class A with some depth.(and split sinks) or some 10mm heatsprader on 10mm base maybe. this is a guess. |
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#1082 |
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2007
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...etails-001.jpg
Heath spreaders why did I not....? ![]() Yeah You wanna Turbo you need intercoolers as well. While you there and fix heath spreaders there is a bit of it that I like but may not be that plain to see. Instead of using silly M3 (sorry for metric) screws with the danger of stripping the treads why not use captive bolts with the heads buried in the spreader then clamp the mosfets with a bar and nut and washers on outside This way one can use M4 or larger screws put much more pressure on the mosfets than a single screw would. especialy if one use Kerafoll this give a much reduced heath Impedence between mosfet body and the rest of the cooling system If you can afford it get same cooper (or hunt around for scrap) The radiated heat is lower than Aluminium (as cooper is mirror like) but the Thermal conductivity is mucho larger (twice ?) Your sink will run much hotter but the mosfet will be cooler. On soft start If any one needs it I got momentary switch to operate a single transistor relay that puls inn the main Trafo trough 2 CL60 in series then the CL 60 are bypasedd by another relay operated again by simple one transistor timer. Yeah you wanna Turbo you need more petroll one CL60 on a 1000VA tafo is not man enough for the job 2 do but get pretty hot |
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#1083 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Quote:
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#1084 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MA
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Quote:
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#1085 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
How do you guys manage that? |
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#1086 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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then hypex is just in your street. and you got pushbutton/standby, on/standby LED and thermo breaker if you need it.
just pull out the resistors an solder 2 CL-60. i have used that one for a load up to 1000VA 408.000uF and no problem. |
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#1087 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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#1088 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MA
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I imagine you spread some thermalcote on and bolt it together. I think the idea is that because heat spreads much farther quickly so the the thermal interface between the copper and aluminum is not quite as critical.
Last edited by labjr; 21st March 2012 at 09:16 PM. |
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#1089 |
diyAudio Member
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Sure, I get that.
I'm just wondering how good the thermal coupling is. I guess I'm trying to decide if I can move heat away from the MOSFETs quicker if they're directly on the heatsing rather than attached to a heatspreader which is then attached to the heatsink. |
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#1090 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MA
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I once thought of mounting the P type and N types devices on separate copper heat spreaders electrically isolated from the aluminum, so you can mount the outputs directly without any insulator reducing the case temperature even more.
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