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Old 12th February 2012, 06:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
Ooh, I like that even better! Any particular relay you like for this application? I am a little worried about him and the idea of running the relay continuously isn't great either so I'd like to have that as a backup plan.
I purchased an open-frame DPDT bistable latching relay with 120 VAC coil for about $24 from Newark Electronics about six months ago. Unfortunately, I checked Newark today, and could not find it in the on-line catalog. (But they did have a lot of enclosed latching relays for $100 each...!)

Here's another option: RLY7645 - NTE - Relays - RELAY-15A,DPDT,120VAC, Bistable, Impulse Relay

I've also be able to pick up a pair, for $10 each, from a local electronics surplus store (probably a good one-time deal).
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Old 12th February 2012, 06:29 PM   #12
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Thanks canam. Appreciate the input. I saw similar options on mouser. Hopefully I don't have any issues with my current plan though.

As for my kit issues, apparently, I didn't connect the dots between the tech-DIY kit and the v2.0 boards available in the store. Looks like some of the resistor values are different... Any commentary about whether or not these differences are significant or not? For example, two of the 3W resistors are 0.47 vs 0.68 ohms. I haven't come across the evolution of how the BoM changed from v1 vs v2.
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Old 12th February 2012, 06:33 PM   #13
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I am talking to another guy who has original version F5 boards and the new TechDIY parts Kit.

To figure out the differences, my suggestion is to stuff the board with just the resistors, using the standard F5 schematic as the guide. You will probably need to order a couple of resistors from Mouser, but it's only going to be a buck or two.
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Old 12th February 2012, 07:19 PM   #14
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Ok, thanks for the advice. I might have some in the parts bin. Should have waited to place my mouser order! I hate paying shipping for such small dollar items.
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Old 14th February 2012, 01:06 AM   #15
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Heat sinks and transformer from Antek arrived today:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonwang/6872969559/" title="photo.JPG by jasonwang99, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/6872969559_048f688282.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="photo.JPG"></a>

Need to figure out what I'm going to do about the other four sides of the enclosure now!
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Old 14th February 2012, 01:45 AM   #16
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Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by oneplustwo; 14th February 2012 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 14th February 2012, 02:56 AM   #17
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I see you stepped up for the one with the shield. What's the voltage?

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Old 14th February 2012, 03:17 AM   #18
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I see you stepped up for the one with the shield. What's the voltage?

The same as the otherwise recommended one... 400VA at 18V. I also picked up a 50VA 15V one for the impending hypnotize B1 build. Separate build thread for that once I get around to it!

Now that I think about it... What am I supposed to do with the purple shield wire? Attach to star ground?
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Old 14th February 2012, 09:16 AM   #19
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Run the purple wire to your chassis/safety star ground.

Last edited by william2001; 14th February 2012 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 16th February 2012, 01:23 AM   #20
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Got some bits from Mouser today. Does anyone else find soldering large electrolytics extremely satisfying?

Any commentary on the initial layout? I'm also considering going sans power switch entirely despite having bought the DPDT relay. i would just switch it on at a dedicated power strip. That would keep the build as simple and clean as possible.

Also, I was considering putting the transformer in a separate "floor" box to minimize any chance of hum. I haven't seen that execution in the F5 before though so thought I would see if there are any concerns there. The only thing that I would want to do is make sure the umbilical between the boxes isn't too long. Maybe 2-3 feet... thoughts?

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by oneplustwo; 16th February 2012 at 01:26 AM.
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