is there any way you can squeeze more power out of an aleph5?

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Don't know if the Aleph5 is capable of decently driving 4 ohm.
According to the Aleph2 service manual, which says 100W/8ohm
and 160W/4ohm, I wouldn't be surprised that the Aleph5 already gives you close to 100W/4ohm.
Other Aleph5 owners can probably confirm this (or not)
If you really want more power I guess you’ll have to convert them into Aleph2’s.

/Hugo
 
Hello cowanrg,
the better way to proceed, IMHO, is to build a bigger Aleph, as Netlist pointed out.
Original Aleph 5 s rated 90W/4ohm, so a difference between this at the 100W target is not so big, at least in SPL.
But the A5 doesn't fell at its ease with "difficult" loads...
If you want to give a try to your Aleph, you can rise the bias current as much as you can (Hexfet dissipation, power supply an heatsinks must be suitable to the heavier job, of course).
As a last attempt, you may try to increase the gain of the current source, respect the active side: this practice has his cost against the sound, on the contrary of the previous one.

Marcello
 
Yes, you can add more fets to get more bias and output current capability, but they need to be matched like the others, you need the current capacity in your psu, and the heat sinks to dissapate the added heat. All of these changes acn be made with no adjustment to the rest of the circuit.
I built (still in progress, but playing beautifully) my Aleph 2s with 8 fets per side instead of 6 and used lower source resistors to almost double the bias for 4 ohm speakers.
Adding output devices is the way to get more current without degrading sonics by some other compromise. With the extra current avalible, you should have double the wattage @ 8 ohms into a 4 ohm load.
I have pots in mine for R19 and R21 (bias and current gain). The amps sounded better with less current gain and more bias than vice vera.
 
Brian is correct. Up the bias. As a bonus the amp will sound better, too. You may or may not have to add more output devices, depending on what you chose to put into your amp and how much you increase the bias. More output devices will--all things being equal--give you more current capability, but it will also tend to 'darken' the sound of the amp due to increased cumulative Gate capacitance presented to the front end. Watch your heat sinking. When in doubt, add more. No one ever ran a class A amp too cool. Running one too hot, however, can cause a problem or two.
Somewhere in the bowels of the Aleph-X thread I gave a recipe for calculating the wattage/bias for Alephs and Aleph-Xs. I know it's a tough slog to wade through all that, but it's there.

Grey
 
Hi Cowanrg,

With Maggies you might consider building these versions or a modified version of the Aleph 2 instead...

http://www.passlabs.com/pdf/aleph/a0_serv_4-6.pdf
or
http://www.passlabs.com/pdf/aleph/a1serv.pdf

I run Apogees at this end and they too are known for being very hard to drive. About a year ago, I remember Nelson mentioning that I might consider looking at building these versions of the Aleph because they handle low impedances so much better.

I borrowed a 0s from a friend and was blown away by how much control it had over a pair of Apogee Stages. We hooked it up thinking that because of its low power there was no way it would drive the Apogees well...

We were very wrong! :nod:

That little amp blew away amps that cost 5 times as much and the difference wasn't subtle...

You might consider building an Aleph 2 version with the three gain stages instead... They will handle the low impedance loads much better...

By far the best sounding amp that I've ever heard drive the Apogees....

For what it's worth...
 
hum. i was trying to keep it cheap :)

my main amps will be the aleph 2's im building, the other amps are for bi-amping, and the rears/center. not as important, but still should be nice.

where is this three gain stage aleph2? i would love to build another aleph2, but i need 4 channels of it to complete my theatre, and not only would the cost be prohibitive, but i wont want that much heat/space.
 
Pass never built a 3 gain stage Aleph 2. You would need to wing it a bit and combine the Alephs 0 & 1 and come up with something between the two. Shouldn't be very hard actually because the power supply voltages etc should be close to the 2 gain stage models... The output stage could be the same as the 2 gain stage models it's only the front end that you would need to change...

Also had a question for you. What are you planning to use for the meters? I too am building cases and need something similar...

You've done a very nice job thus far by the way!!!!
 
im going to use something like this (visually):

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=385&item=PMD-15V&type=store

then, remove the top plastic cover, remove the scale backdrop. i will take a piece of brushed aluminum and place it where the old scale was. put some markings on it (just black hash marks). then, where the plastic face was, replace it with plexi, and side-light it with blue leds.

(there are more details, but you kinda get the idea...)

about the alephs, i was hoping to get my board from Kristijan. im using his aleph2 boards, and they are great. he only has the aleph 1.2, 2, 3, 4, and 5 though. and i really dont think that i want ANOTHER set of aleph 2's. is there a way to bias them so they dont create as much heat/power?
 
The Magneplanars are a very benign load. You'll have no trouble driving them with a stock Aleph 5. There's no law that says that an amplifier must double into 4 ohms. What will happen is that the amplifier will current limit when it reaches the end of its current capability.
You'll need to roughly double the bias in order to double the power into a 4 ohm load. There's not much extra juice built into the Aleph 5. Power dissipation will increase accordingly.

Grey
 
would it be possible to increase the bias just a little bit to squeeze just a tad bit extra power out (becuase im over-heatsinking...).

i think the aleph 5 will be sufficient for my rears (ive done a bit more research, and ive come to the conclusion that i dont need 200 watts of class A power for rear channels... 90 watts will be fine.)

but, if i could just run them hotter to get more power, that would work.
 
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