Pass X150 Where does it sit in the overall line up ??

[Zen Mod]

for easier orientation , see enclosed pic ;

please - double check pots/headers list against pic - morning coffee still didn't hit me enough

everything left of red line is CH1 , everything right of red line is CH2

edit , little later ( coffee hitting ) :

CH1 :

P4 - header A

P2 - header C


CH2 :


P3 - header B

P1 - header D

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

Wall of text, pft, ive seen bigger descriptions on how to open a box 😛

With those instructions I can't see any real dramas.
So I will strip the amp and order parts as soon as i can.
Maybe tonight, though i should wait till tmrw when im rested and fresh.

If you have the time, the 'exact' procedure would be great.
purely cause I dont wish to turn my abused pride and joy into a paper weight 😉

Oh, and if I may, your english is fantastic.
your knowledge and willingness to help are superb.
A massive thank you, to you 😀

 

[Zen Mod]

naah .....

Jacco's Engrish is superb .... while I'm writing ( and speaking just un poco ) genuine ZMengrish

you make me , with entire adventure , to study ( well - at least more ) exact organization and actual physical layout of X150 and my ( always modest ) conclusion is - you really have a real gem there ; considering both sound and physical excellency , that's amp for life , if you ask me .

edit : OK - I would like some thicker wires in PSU lines but , hey , every mnfctrr must skimp somewhere

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

well, if you want better pics of it, pm me your email and i shall send you much bigger pics.

ps wires, i wasnt sure if they were that size for any particular reason.
if not, they are gunna get up sized...

yeah, the overall condition of the amp is really good.
when i bought it, i did think this will be an amp i will have till i die.
or until something better comes along 😀 just like marriage :O

 

[Zen Mod]

I'm collector .........

just recently I started selling some things I know I'm not going to use ever

so - send as much pictures you want at >sasica5@gmail.com<

regarding wires - leave them as they are , or replace with some decent speaker wire of 2.5 sqmm ; I'm using the same , fine Litz-ed ; it's good copper , and pretty flexible , too.

replace both - wires from PSU to output mosfet pcbs , same as wires to spkr binding posts

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

Yes, i seem to have a collection that i need to sell too. especially now 😉

email added, i shall send pics soon...

wire, 2.5mm, i was thinking more like garden hose. ok, i wasnt really...
will see what its like as i get into the repairs..

 

[Zen Mod]

you can wait with pics , and send with those made during recap,repot,rewire

 

[Zen Mod]

.......
measuring those jumpers (prev labeled a/b/c/d)
gives 0v071 and 0v069
nothing like the 0v94 ZM suggested........

there is some misshap in SM I have (my lips are sealed who's responsible for mistakes in bias value in several PL SMs )

please - measure exact PSU voltage ( at big caps screws) so we will calculate what's ballpark for that "0V94" figure

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

LOL

Ok, well, before i started pulling it apart....... it did measure ~40vdc.
once i have it refreshed and running again, i shall recheck ps and post the actuall vdc.

 

[Zen Mod]

........ unless Papa chime in with proper ballpark value .... that will save us double check up , having on mind heatsink temp and bias value all the time

😉

 

[Zen Mod]

LOL

Ok, well, before i started pulling it apart....... it did measure ~40vdc.
once i have it refreshed and running again, i shall recheck ps and post the actuall vdc.

do not worry

that value needs to be in ballpark of (100W/(10pairs x 75V)) x Rss

where 100W is declared dissipation per channel , 10 pairs means 10 vertical pairs in output per channel , 75V is presumed full +/- PSU voltage under the load , and Rss means two 0R47 source resistors in series

that means (100/750)0,94= 0V125

plenty lower than 0V94

so - say that - for start - we will chasing 100mV ( having strong suspitionthat proper SM value must be 0V094 , so just typo is in question) across 2pin header and then , depending of heatsink temp , we'll go up or down
goal is to have ~ 25C above room temp , and -say - 50C max in summer

when you can make nice (invented and Copylefted by yours truly ) Official Papamp Babysitter

remember that we have heatsink temp as most firm value here ; every other value ( Iq per instance ) is subject to change and doubt , when Papa is in question
why's that , dunno ; probably because he's having at least 12 DiyA monkeys on his back , all the time .......

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

fair enough then.
yes i try not to bug Mr Pass.
I susspect hes got plenty of us annoying about minor stuff...

 

[Zen Mod]

do you want to set it now , or you'll wait for new parts ?

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

well.
its like this.
the amp.
its in pieces right now........................
front panels off, rear panel loose, wiring disconected, amp module loose ready to swing out of the way....

so, i um, think ill wait till the new parts are in 😀
will order them tmrw (online) and hopefully have them early week...
and might have it back up and running for the week end.

 

[Zen Mod]

now just let me know how many DVMs you have at hand ?

feel free to toss those bigres pics in my direction now

😉

(these pics can be handy later , if you in doubt with anything ; when putting it back later , take extreme care of proper positioning of UGS modules , same as ribbon cables , on correspondent pin headers )

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

I have two f179.

shall email them shortly..

 

[Zen Mod]

it will go hard , emailing f179s .....

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

not as hard as emailing f111's or f114's 😛

 

[Zen Mod]

considering that you'll need considerable repetition of cover on/cover off steps , you can:

- make temporary cover from appropriate sized cardboard , with few extremely intelligent made holes on/in it

- put some tape on all sides of original cover plate , that way avoiding scratching of parts involved

 

[Old'n'Cranky]

smart idea. i like it..

oh, and two emails sent your way....