Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st December 2011, 01:00 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
PreCD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Default Pass Design Adcom - Filter Cap Problem

I have been studying for a couple of days the variety of PS Filter caps to use in my Pass design Adcom GFA-555 amplifier. For one it seems there are not a huge variety of 15000uf 100v caps out there to be had. I have scoured the earth and am leaning toward a Vishay PHR-ST type. $38 a pop.

Max ESR 16 Mohm @ 100hz.
Rated ripple current @ 100hz = 12.3

What have others used for this amp design?
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st December 2011, 11:58 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
PreCD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Done and done. Ordered the Vishays from Digikey along with 3.9kOhm 3W Metal Film resistors which reside on the filter caps at this time. Might as well replace those too. I would like to know why those resistors are there as bleeders though..............
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st December 2011, 10:27 PM   #3
The one and only
 
Nelson Pass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
For safety. If the rail fuses are blown, high voltage can sit on those caps
long enough to zap a technician.

  Reply With Quote
Old 21st December 2011, 10:45 PM   #4
Apex Jr is offline Apex Jr  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Torrance, Calif
I have been selling the 22,000Uf 100V caps as replacements

http://www.apexjr.com/images/AdcomCap.jpg

There $23.95ea and have 23 left in stock

Steve @ Apex Jr
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st December 2011, 11:44 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
PreCD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson Pass View Post
For safety. If the rail fuses are blown, high voltage can sit on those caps
long enough to zap a technician.

Thank you sir for the kind advice, it is very appreciated. I am trying to quieten the big cat so no blown rail fuses. I will gator clip a 100K 2W resistor between them for awhile and leave it there as I work ok.

Happy Holidays and thanks again.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd December 2011, 04:14 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
PreCD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Would you bring the amp up with a dim bulb tester after all 4 filter caps are replaced or just put your foot on the gas.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd December 2011, 04:29 PM   #7
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
diyAudio Member
 
Zen Mod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
if you are sure in your work - just put foot on the gas

if you have doubts in your work , use bulb safety thingie
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson !
tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; BAF Forum & Gallery;I'm dumb
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd December 2011, 04:38 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
PreCD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen Mod View Post
if you are sure in your work - just put foot on the gas

if you have doubts in your work , use bulb safety thingie
Looks like I will just straighten my knee on the gas pedal then...........
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd December 2011, 12:06 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Andersonix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Silicon Valley
Rather than just switch on the amp after working on the PS, you should remove the rail fuses between the PS and amp circuit, and check the PS alone. This way you'll only blow the PS and not the amp if something's wrong.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd December 2011, 11:53 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
PreCD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andersonix View Post
Rather than just switch on the amp after working on the PS, you should remove the rail fuses between the PS and amp circuit, and check the PS alone. This way you'll only blow the PS and not the amp if something's wrong.
Good sound advice.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY One fader mixer with Filter Low Pass, Hi Pass, Notch Pass Filter PGM stevep314 Analog Line Level 0 10th August 2010 09:15 PM
1st order low-pass filter, which cap ? Thmartin Parts 4 17th November 2005 08:37 AM
Active Band Pass Filter Design... xitronics Parts 8 6th June 2005 06:01 AM
adcom gtp 500ll tuner problem, Nelson Pass maybe? crippledchicken Pass Labs 11 21st January 2004 11:36 PM
Low pass filter design for TDA1541 Zodiac Digital Source 23 25th September 2003 01:14 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:35 AM.

Page generated in 0.10096 seconds (82.98% PHP - 17.02% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio