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#31 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Virginia, USA
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#32 |
AudioMaker.Tech
diyAudio Member
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@PSz
The higher the leakage current, the higher the voltage drop (I X R) I didn't try a source bypass cap. I didn't want to suffer the wrath of the purists, and I knew the source resistor alone would be pushing it. ![]() I'll be interested in your opinion once you've tried it.
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Visit AudioMaker.Tech Last edited by Michael Rothacher; 4th December 2011 at 07:12 PM. |
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#33 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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#34 |
AudioMaker.Tech
diyAudio Member
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Look at the schematic I pointed you towards previously. L'Amp: A simple SIT Amp
A power supply (B+) of 45-50V will work nicely. Adjust the bias for 2.5-2.75A. Bias batteries are not a good idea here.
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#35 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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#36 |
diyAudio Member
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CW = clockwise
CCW = counterclockwise turning of the pot.... ![]()
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and the First W ![]() ![]() |
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#37 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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i learn everyday
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#38 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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120V lightbulb is very difficult to find in europe, is it not as good using a 300W OHMITE - C300K10R -
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#39 |
AudioMaker.Tech
diyAudio Member
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The cutoff frequency (-3dB) for the filter formed by the 10,000 uF output cap and an 8 Ohm speaker is:
Fc = 1/(2*PI*R*C(Farads)) = Hz Fc = 1/(2*PI*8*.01) = 2Hz Then the frequency response at 20Hz will be: 20*LOG10(1/(SQRT(1+(Fc/F)^2)) = dB 20*LOG(1/(SQRT(1+(2/20)^2)) = -0.04dB You can do the math for a smaller cap and decide if it's suitable. Also, the big resistor will work fine. You want 11-13 Ohms total. It will get very hot. You could potentially string several 2 Ohm resitors in series and tap off to try different load values. But that might best be left for later.
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#40 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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