Lamp is driving full range speaker from 125hz to 20khz.
F5 is driving below 125hz. The active crossover is before the lamp and F5.
I've seen what you proposed in F3, to split freq like 1st order slope?
Is that what you mean?
I'm using generic 10k uF electrolytic at Lamp output.
Just want to know if anyone can share their experience with bypassing
that output cap with higher quality film caps.
I think I read paper in oil caps are not good for bypassing.
True?
Thx
Vin
F5 is driving below 125hz. The active crossover is before the lamp and F5.
I've seen what you proposed in F3, to split freq like 1st order slope?
Is that what you mean?
I'm using generic 10k uF electrolytic at Lamp output.
Just want to know if anyone can share their experience with bypassing
that output cap with higher quality film caps.
I think I read paper in oil caps are not good for bypassing.
True?
Thx
Vin
true ............ ?
as with vine - you are only one entitled to judge verity
so - if you bypass elco with film - keep it if you like it
if you prefer big solid cap instead , use that
in your boots , I would try to put some motor run caps there ,instead of elco
say , 3x 70 (80)uF will do the job
on our side of big splash , Icar Italy is manufacturer to seek for , while on your side ....... dunno - most probably GE
as with vine - you are only one entitled to judge verity
so - if you bypass elco with film - keep it if you like it
if you prefer big solid cap instead , use that
in your boots , I would try to put some motor run caps there ,instead of elco
say , 3x 70 (80)uF will do the job
on our side of big splash , Icar Italy is manufacturer to seek for , while on your side ....... dunno - most probably GE
Acronman ( CircuitDIY Affortable Components for Hobbyists ) is the best source I'm aware of.
Acronman ( CircuitDIY Affortable Components for Hobbyists ) is the best source I'm aware of.
The only reliable source I am aware of. Highly recommended.
The only reliable source I am aware of. Highly recommended.
They also sell on ebay, where I bought 4 SITs.
5 stars seller IMHO.
Any of them can be made to work. It is a question of where the bias voltage will need to be to achieve the proper idle current. With an adequate adjustable voltage source for bias, this shouldn't be a problem.
If you build a version with P-channels, all the polarities get flipped.
If you build a version with P-channels, all the polarities get flipped.
For P-Channel, the Drain would be connected to the negative terminal of the supply (through the load). The source would be grounded as would the positive terminal of the supply. The bias will need to be positive with respect to the source, so you may wish to use a positive regulator IC there. Note the polarity of the output cap as well.
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