Advice wanted on Aleph P1.7 build

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Albert:

You'll love the Aleph P 1.7. I also used Dantimax boards and am very, very satisfied. I used 10 pin Amphenol connectors for my 2 box AP17 build but only used 7 of the pins (Hot and Ground for each AP17 channel (4 pins), Hot and Ground for the Dantimax power supply (2 pins) and system ground (1 pin)). While pricey, the Amphenol connectors are clearly built to last.

Regards,
Scott
 

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Albert:

You'll love the Aleph P 1.7. I also used Dantimax boards and am very, very satisfied. I used 10 pin Amphenol connectors for my 2 box AP17 build but only used 7 of the pins (Hot and Ground for each AP17 channel (4 pins), Hot and Ground for the Dantimax power supply (2 pins) and system ground (1 pin)). While pricey, the Amphenol connectors are clearly built to last.

Regards,
Scott

Thanks for the tip, Scott. Your build looks great! Modushop boxes?

I just checked Amphenol, and see that they also have XLR connectors. Interestingly, they state that the max. service voltage is 133V. In a footnote it mentions that the limit is 50V in a domestic situation. So, the connector will handle it, but probably regulation does not allow the use of these types of connectors above 50V in the home.
I guess the same must be true for Neutrik (cannot imagine their high-end all metal connectors being any different as they are designed for the same market).
So, it looks like 4 or 5 pin XLR should work fine.

Thanks for your comments about the AP and Dantimax. I look forward to hearing how they sound in a few months time!

Albert

PS I wanted to keep as much "junk" away from the amplification circuit, so I am placing the Control2, Frontpanel (with switches/knobs) and OLED display in the PSU box. I will only have RelVol3, Input2 and the Aleph board in the main enclosure.
 
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Albert - I started building a P17 several years ago,which for several reasons is still not finished, so I'm following this thread with some interest....:)

FWIW , I think the general limit as pr regulations, are 48V for most of Europe. The XLRs will most probably do just fine, but the man point to watch is the current drawn through the connector. I design and build prototypes / small series in my day job, and one of the things I loook to for solutions like this, is risk of erroneous or misinterpreted connections by using commonly known connectors for other than their normal intended purpose.
An example here is using a 5-pin XLR which is somewhat common for audio, - therefore in this case I would use the 4-pin.

The referred type of Amphenol connector is very much in use in my line of work, and while they are somewhat expensive, they are highly relieable in dry environments. There are also alternative interchangeable makes, like Souriau, and plenty of other industrial connectors that would fit the bill, - pun intended! ;)

What are you planning for the control lines? D-type, or.. ??
 
Hi AuroraB,

I bought most parts for mine many years ago as well. A friend was building them but got stuck and the parts have been gathering dust every since. Now is the time to finally finish this project!

I am not so worried about the current drawn through the connector.
The Aleph P1.7 only uses 25W power (user manual), so at 60V DC and with 2 PSU's (one per channel), there will be very little current (0.2A or so each) through the pins. The XLR is rated much higher, so that should be OK.

I also plan on building a Pearl II (3 box setup; have boards and most parts) and plan to use XLR4 for power from PSU box to amp boxes to avoid confusion with balanced lines.
For the Aleph P1.7 I wanted to make sure that I did not connect the Pearl PSU by mistake, so thought XLR5 might be better than XLR4. Did not know XLR5 is used in audio.

I have emailed with Mikkel (Dantimax) and he suggested using a Cat7 cable for power and signals for the Dantimax boards. Neutrik has a nice EtherCON connector (same panel cutout as RCA and XLR) so that should look great. Check my panel layout in a previous post.

Happy building!

Albert
 
The risk of "hastily" making the wrong connection was just one of my points, but I've often seen people focusing on connector voltages and just plain forgetting about the currents involved.

A little anecdote from my own life - while traing as a radio operator with our army Signal Corps in the early 70s, initial training was done on some close to antiquated radio sets. All connectors were of different types and sizes - there were even 3 different jack plug sizes! We used ro refer to it as "infantry proof" .. :D
 
???

im almost to the point of testing mine.
what did you guys do to test?
im thinking, checking all the normal stuff.....but
i was going to scope at a certain feq to match the boards
gain. but, what freq? i dont think it will matter but ive been wrong
before.
also...square wave it? look for ringing?
any other sujestions?


also your danimax boards.....

dose the input/output boards output both bal and unbal?

thanks
 
i did no testing exept the normal testing one can do with a DMM.
the the input2 board output both bal and unbal.

ok thanks for your reply.

i need to do something for volume control.

i am ashamed to say a few years ago.... i bought a relay based vol control based off of 1.7.
it was before i knew better, or what a 1.7 pre was. just that it did what i needed.
i have sence trashed it. to bad i didnt know before...sorry.

but these might fit the bill
 
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