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Old 16th September 2011, 10:16 PM   #1
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Default Etching help

I really need some solid info on this dark art. I have not been able to get consistent results. Magazine paper had yielded the best results, but still can't get it right. Any specific info would be helpful. I have seen so many successful examples using magazine paper and an iron but can't get it to work.
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Old 16th September 2011, 10:40 PM   #2
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I would suggest you get the proper blue press and peel rather than trying glossy sheets....
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Old 16th September 2011, 10:51 PM   #3
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What brand of printer are you using?

What is the problem your having exactly?

Press and peel is a waste of money IMO. I can get perfect results with HP glossy presentation paper.
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Old 16th September 2011, 11:18 PM   #4
eyoung is offline eyoung  United States
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I have an interest in this as I have itch that needs scratching.

Regards, El
"Lead me not into temptation...I can find it myself."
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Old 17th September 2011, 12:10 AM   #5
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I am using the Xerox laser printer at Office Max and putting it on high qaulity magazine paper like Architectural Digest. Some work great, some do poorly. I didn't know if there was an ideal heat setting on the iron. I know a lot of people use lamination machines, but i don't want to buy one. I know it can be done because guys are doing extremely complex layouts with no speckling or unevenness or partial traces.
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Old 17th September 2011, 12:25 AM   #6
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so you're doing your laser printing at the store ? cool , i've been on the hedge about buying a printer just for pcb printing , but didn't think about just going to my local staples
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Old 17th September 2011, 06:37 AM   #7
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Lol, I have my wife print mine at work. The press and peel is not that expensive if you use it right. First print a dummy on a blank sheet to find its position, then cut out only a large enough piece to cover the printed area, glue it on, and put it back into the printer.
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Old 17th September 2011, 07:16 AM   #8
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Default A better resist than PNP exists


You might consider stepping up to a serious quality etching photomask. The iron-on PNP blue is very touchy. It requires constant heat, but not too much. You have to adjust the iron to the size of the board, keep it moving, etc. Even with a laminator, it may not come out right.

I have done very high-resolution etching of logos for jewelry for years using Puretch Photopolymer for PCBs. It is a flexible sheet that is easy to apply, sticks well with no heat (just water and suction), and exposes evenly with a nail-drying light or similar. You work with it under a bug (yellow or darkroom) light, and develop it in soda ash. If you try it, you will abandon PNP forever.

The one caveat on all resists is the metallic (in this case, copper) surface must be absolutely clean. You need to scrub with Barkeeper's Friend and/or pumice, then wipe with alcohol. If you pick up tarnish with a paper towel, it's not clean. The resist needs to be applied within hours of cleaning the board.
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Old 17th September 2011, 07:35 AM   #9
jazz is offline jazz  Netherlands
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Location: leiden, physically that is...

I use photosensitive pcb's and transparent presentation sheets. Works nice and reliably. Takes a bit of practice with the printer to align the sheet for the second and if needed third print though.

oh, what a beautifull day
I wanna go out and play!
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Old 17th September 2011, 08:40 AM   #10
NYCOne is offline NYCOne  United States
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Check out my blog on the subject:

I use Staples item 633215. It flawless for single sided PCBs and very good for two sided.
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