Beads are there because I put the rest of the ceramic beads somewhere safe And now can not find them.
Yes insulation and heath resistant.
At first 1 Thermistor whit larger fuse was ok
Now smaller fuse 2 thermistors.
Thermistors get hot so insulating beads.
But now no more hot thermistors as relay By pass.
I am going to keep the beads there just in case I loose those as well (and if relay fail)
Caps
They are only litle baby 10mU 40 V (actualy 8 on back order)
so just 200mU rail.
Had the same ammount of Samwha shown in the box
I like litle ones beter than the big ones. More way to do things, cheaper than replace,Price breack for quantity.
Fit well in the 3U enclosure
ha almost forgot much lower ESR than big ones especialy when a few in paralel
Would it sound better with the Rifa?
Probably me think.
Nah only Alcool pop size 65 X35od 2 1/2 x 1 3/8
Yes insulation and heath resistant.
At first 1 Thermistor whit larger fuse was ok
Now smaller fuse 2 thermistors.
Thermistors get hot so insulating beads.
But now no more hot thermistors as relay By pass.
I am going to keep the beads there just in case I loose those as well (and if relay fail)
Caps
They are only litle baby 10mU 40 V (actualy 8 on back order)
so just 200mU rail.
Had the same ammount of Samwha shown in the box
I like litle ones beter than the big ones. More way to do things, cheaper than replace,Price breack for quantity.
Fit well in the 3U enclosure
ha almost forgot much lower ESR than big ones especialy when a few in paralel
Would it sound better with the Rifa?
Probably me think.
Nah only Alcool pop size 65 X35od 2 1/2 x 1 3/8
I'm having problems with my right channel. I popped a fuse yesterday after listening for about .5 hr.
I opened it up to take a look at it, and V- side of the board (r18, r16, r14) and .47ohm 3w resistors are a bit blackened.
r16 being the worst.
The left channel looks great.
I can post a pic of that board.
I can replace the resistors, but what might have cause the problems with that channel?
I opened it up to take a look at it, and V- side of the board (r18, r16, r14) and .47ohm 3w resistors are a bit blackened.
r16 being the worst.
The left channel looks great.
I can post a pic of that board.
I can replace the resistors, but what might have cause the problems with that channel?
my blue F5
Hi all
I finished my F5.
I mounted two mono F5. I used clear plastic to make the chassis.
- 300VA transformer
-bridge rectifier are mur3020 (fast recovery)
- 4 x 15000 uF Nippon Chemicon, for each channel
- tech-diy kit
- flexible LED strip light inside
- increased resistance R3 and R4 on a channel to reach the bias.
Are under the bias adjuster, about 0.59 V. About two hours, the bias is 0.59 V and the offset is 0 mV, but with this setting when you turn the bias is 0,50v and the offset is 34 mV. I guess this is correct?.
I can hold my hand in the sink long enough.
No comment yet fart on the sound until I connect to my main audio system.
No hum, no noise or hiss. Absolutely quiet.
Some pictures!
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Br
AL
Hi all
I finished my F5.
I mounted two mono F5. I used clear plastic to make the chassis.
- 300VA transformer
-bridge rectifier are mur3020 (fast recovery)
- 4 x 15000 uF Nippon Chemicon, for each channel
- tech-diy kit
- flexible LED strip light inside
- increased resistance R3 and R4 on a channel to reach the bias.
Are under the bias adjuster, about 0.59 V. About two hours, the bias is 0.59 V and the offset is 0 mV, but with this setting when you turn the bias is 0,50v and the offset is 34 mV. I guess this is correct?.
I can hold my hand in the sink long enough.
No comment yet fart on the sound until I connect to my main audio system.
No hum, no noise or hiss. Absolutely quiet.
Some pictures!
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Br
AL
With such sizes per monoblock, 30x30x15cm plus feet, you must be residing in Andalucia.
Very nice build. Where did you get the power switch from? I am looking for something like that for my F5....
With one Mosfet per heatsink, I am sure they are running quite cool. With 300VA toroid and heatsinks in a monobloc, you can afford to add another pair of output MOSFETs and run warm.
Cheers.
With one Mosfet per heatsink, I am sure they are running quite cool. With 300VA toroid and heatsinks in a monobloc, you can afford to add another pair of output MOSFETs and run warm.
Cheers.
Thank you all for your comments and help and especially NP for its design.
I have no thermometer to measure but I can hold my hand forever in the sink. Here in Sevilla (Andalucia) makes a lot of heat. Inside my house at least 30 degrees and was more than 40 º. I put a mosfet heat sink for this reason.
The mosfet is not centered on the sink. There are more heat behind than in front. Surely it would have been better to focus but preferred to have the F5 pcb near the audio inputs and outputs.
Interrupteurs - Audiophonics - Câbles, Amplificateurs et Accessoires DIY
How do I add another mosfet?, what are the benefits?
excuse my English
Br
AL
I have no thermometer to measure but I can hold my hand forever in the sink. Here in Sevilla (Andalucia) makes a lot of heat. Inside my house at least 30 degrees and was more than 40 º. I put a mosfet heat sink for this reason.
The mosfet is not centered on the sink. There are more heat behind than in front. Surely it would have been better to focus but preferred to have the F5 pcb near the audio inputs and outputs.
Interrupteurs - Audiophonics - Câbles, Amplificateurs et Accessoires DIY
How do I add another mosfet?, what are the benefits?
excuse my English
Br
AL
Thanks for the switch details.
Regarding adding one more pair of outputs, there are quite a few schematics in the F5 thread particularly from zenmod, jacco, juma and others on how to parallel the output MOSFETs. Essentially you need matched N-N-P-P MOSFETs and some including me have used Toshiba MOSFETs.
Fugly!
That's personal taste. Not too sure that I would have made them transparent.
Have you seen my thread on the Aleph 4 Strictly DIY build.
They are nearing completion now.
Albertob
Parralel devices is easy Just source resistor 0.47R and gate resistor 47 R
Es lo mismo dos Mosfets dos 0.47 R dos 47 R
Advantages 2 devices sharing the current (this to keep all Power suply the same)
less heat on each device beter use of heath sink.
2 or more devices hi bias better output on low impedance speakers.Voltagge same.
2 or more devices hi biass hi voltagge just more power out.
But not just as IMO (opinion personal) much beter dinamics and slam from mosfets sound much beter more open and faster only snag maybe even more analitic so if you got bad records sell them on.
It all depends on the heat sink, limit is maybe 50W device. (for standard sinks)
I got big sinks so 200W dissipation whitout problems.
If your sinks are cold you could try to up Bias a bit but I would definetly cek the temperature of the mosfets cases first.
If you have poor thermal coupling between mosfets and sinks the sink stay cold and the mosfet eventualy pop.
Parralel devices is easy Just source resistor 0.47R and gate resistor 47 R
Es lo mismo dos Mosfets dos 0.47 R dos 47 R
Advantages 2 devices sharing the current (this to keep all Power suply the same)
less heat on each device beter use of heath sink.
2 or more devices hi bias better output on low impedance speakers.Voltagge same.
2 or more devices hi biass hi voltagge just more power out.
But not just as IMO (opinion personal) much beter dinamics and slam from mosfets sound much beter more open and faster only snag maybe even more analitic so if you got bad records sell them on.
It all depends on the heat sink, limit is maybe 50W device. (for standard sinks)
I got big sinks so 200W dissipation whitout problems.
If your sinks are cold you could try to up Bias a bit but I would definetly cek the temperature of the mosfets cases first.
If you have poor thermal coupling between mosfets and sinks the sink stay cold and the mosfet eventualy pop.