|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion. |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
|
Wanted to originally post this as a part of F5 thread, but thought it would be lost in 1000s of posts there.
My problem is with a recently built F5 using CViller ver 2.0 boards and running dual output pairs of Toshibas. The build is stock F5 schematic except the outputs. Even the wiring is as per the original FW F5. This has worked well for my other F5 builds. No problem. Now I have a slight hum in both the channels of F5 with the input signal shorted. I tried lot of things and finally managed to reduce the hum by nearly half, by soldering two 220uF electrolytics on the F5 PCB across the power rails. But there is STILL hum. I tried shielding the toroid with a sheet steel barrier, but no difference. The power supply is a standard Pass PS with 4 * 15000 uF on each rail in a CRC config. I have tried lifting the ground from the chassis/electrical earth, but no change. Clearly by adding few caps on the PCB, there is a improvement. What else can be done. Should I add a small nano/pico cap as well along with 220uF? The hum seems to be getting picked up at the PCB location, or through the power rail wiring to the PCB. Here are the images (before adding the caps at the PCB): ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks in advance.
__________________
DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
|
pictures are dead thumbnails
anyway , few tips without seeing details -you can try to rotate toroid also - you can try to displace toroid from the box ( extend wires temporary) to be sure that hum isn't magnetically induced if nothing of that helps , buy some caps serious ones - 10mF upwards
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
|
|
|
|
#3 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
|
Quote:
Have tried turning the toroid. No difference. Have not tried removing the toroid out of the box. When you say 10 mF, you mean 100000 microfarad isn't it?
__________________
DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. Last edited by anilva; 8th April 2011 at 02:44 PM. Reason: typo error |
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
|
Here are the pictures:
__________________
DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
First question -- when you short the inputs, does it still hum?
Second -- I would route the input cable along the side of the chassis and away from the filter caps. Consider using shielded twisted pair, not coax, and connect the shield on the amplifier side. Third -- You might want to consider a ground loop breaker if the above don't work. |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
|
Is that 8 mosFETs attached to those heatsinks?
How many F5s are in there. +-60mF should get ripple low enough? Turn the bias down to 100mA. Does it still hum? How much hum, measure it? It is almost certainly a wiring fault. |
|
|
|
#7 | ||
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
|
Quote:
I have heard about ground loop breaker but do not know what it is exactly. Quote:
Will check with 100mA of bias. I cannot see any wiring fault. I have made couple of F5s before with the same wiring topology and they are dead silent. Thanks.
__________________
DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
||
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Bangalore
|
How do I measure hum? Ac at the output?
__________________
DIY F5 Turbo V3, DIY F5 Turbo V2, DIY F5, DIY F5 Toshiba Dual output, DIY Aleph J, DIY Fostex 206 BLH, DIY Altec Onken with 515B LF & 288H HF, Behringer Digital Xover, Technics SP10 MKII & SL-1210, EMT938 TT. |
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Anilva
maybe you have a bunch of wires running to close and parallel to each other. Could you trim the excess off and keep suply output and imput avay from eah other and crossing at 90. |
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
|
If you draw twice as much current as standard F5 you need more filtering caps.
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| F5 hum | preiter | Pass Labs | 10 | 3rd June 2012 01:10 PM |
| F5 Cascoded - an alternative for my interest in the Balanced F5 | NYCOne | Pass Labs | 159 | 24th March 2011 05:23 AM |
| Perpetuum-Ebner PE66: To fix or not to fix... | Grendel the Cat | Everything Else | 0 | 6th April 2007 05:37 AM |
| Tivoli Model1 PSU hum fix / upgrade? | jives11 | Solid State | 1 | 24th May 2004 08:30 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |