MagnumOpus & The B1

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MagnumOpus

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Joined 2011
I'll try and desolder it first. Send for a new diode when I get some other stuff, like the toggle switches. I am trying to find 2 that are visually alike, but can't seem to...I would like to get a SPST for on/off, and a DP3T and/or a DPDT for line toggle. Haven't decided yet how many innputs I want. I need one for my turntable and one for digital source. Maybe one for Xbox games and movies...

Does anyone know of two that are alike?

If not I might do the opposite and get these:
Prices

Or search for a less expensive alternative....
 
M

MagnumOpus

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Joined 2011
6L6 said:
The Goldpoint product is considered to be amongst the very best. Yes, it's quite expensive, but you get what you pay for...

A 2 deck selector and a 20k attenuator would be a great pair for your project!
Click to expand...

Perhaps you could explain briefly the difference between the selectors? I mean, 2 decks for 2 channels? And the poles.....

So to be able to swithc between 3 inputs, wired like in your mail, I would need a 2 deck. 4 pole, 3 positions switch?
 
AuroraB

AuroraB

Member
Joined 2001
For an input selector, you need only 1 deck - gives you up to 6 inputs.....
For an attenuator, you need a lot more positions- 20-24 at best, and hance also at least 2 decks for a single ended stereo attenuator.
As far as I can see, the switches themselves are the classic old ELMA type, just married to a proprietary PCB.....this is also themost expensive ELMA switch, with very low step torque. The ones I offered to trade are the smaller ELMA series, also gold plated, but not suitable for an input attenuator as it does not have enough positions for an attenuator...

If you need more general tech advice, drop me a PM - as for opinions on "what's best" , "holy grail " type parts, I'm not hte reference. Given my background, I live with both feet solidly in the sceptic camp.....:D
 
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M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
AuroraB said:
For an input selector, you need only 1 deck - gives you up to 6 inputs.....
For an attenuator, you need a lot more positions- 20-24 at best, and hance also at least 2 decks for a single ended stereo attenuator.
As far as I can see, the switches themselves are the classic old ELMA type, just married to a proprietary PCB.....this is also themost expensive ELMA switch, with very low step torque. The ones I offered to trade are the smaller ELMA series, also gold plated, but not suitable for an input attenuator as it does not have enough positions for an attenuator...

If you need more general tech advice, drop me a PM - as for opinions on "what's best" , "holy grail " type parts, I'm not hte reference. Given my background, I live with both feet solidly in the sceptic camp.....:D
Click to expand...

I'll do that, thank you. Not really searching for the holy grail, really just have a thing for shiny objects :) And the GP's are 25K also. I've been looking at the TKD 25K pot aswell, but it seem cool to match the switches :)

I will add these parts last, after everything else is built. I have to take some time to decide between the stepped or opto-attenuators and "regular" volume pots... Thanks for the interest in helping out:)
 
M

MagnumOpus

Member
Joined 2011
Have decided to gp with a wall wart psu for this one.
Checking with Dantimax.dk if I can use one of those, or maybe this one?

Digi-Key - T1097-P5P-ND (Manufacturer - EMSA200150-P5P-SZ)

Now I need an inlet for this, but I have searched and searched digikey, but can't find it....Most likely because I donæt know the words in english to narrow the search down propper :) "wall wart inlet plug" just doesn't do it :)
 
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