Another noob B1 question

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Hello!

I searched the forum in an attempt to find a nice first pre-amp build and stumbled across the seemingly simple to build for a noob B1. As I have read a great deal about Mr. Nelson Pass, I immediatley wanted to build one. BUT, my dilemma is this: I really want a remote controllable volume, and have been drooling over the DODD DIY remote-kit. Would it be possibly (most likely) and difficult to install this in the B1?

"If it ain't broken, don't fix it" seem to apply a great deal here, methinks.
Also gain would perhaps become an issue. I plan to use this on either a Hypex or SKA amp. With the Hypex, I have heard gain should be an issue, and with the SKA, a minor adjustment is required. Also the F5 seem incredible, is there a giud for the build somewhere?

ANY feeback, input and so on from more experienced diy'ers are most welcome :)
 
RECEIVER8.JPG


You talking about this remote control receiver?

It has left / right outputs, just need to power the the device and put your outputs into the b1 left / right inputs.
 

6L6

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Don't be intimidated by that remote-controlled volume control. Integrating it into a B1 wouldn't be that hard. The biggest issue would be the 2nd power supply necessary to run the volume, but that could be easily accomplished with a wall-wart.

The B1 is a very nice project. You will not be disappointed with it regardless if you use a remote or not!
 
Ok, thank you. I've seen som goodlooking solutions for the B1 psu. Maybe I could even put both psu's in a standalone box and run to cables into the B1, perhaps without sockets even. But the alps the remote kit is 100k and Pass recomends 25k. What would be the difference?

I have decided to keep things simple the first time around, and leave the remote for mye nest pre build. There are so many great things (affordable, nonetheleast) in this forum I'm sure I'll find use for it. A nice tube pre perhaps.

I am working on the BOM for B1 and looking into the F5 a bit aswell.
I'll post my list later on and hopefully get som feeback on it :)

Thank you guys.
 
A linear track pot can be converted to an approximate audio track by choosing a pot 10times too high and adding a log faking resistor of about 10% to 20% to the output of the pot.

You could implement a similar trick to the 100k log pot to bring down the effective output impedance over some of the volume adjustment range and gain a bit in softening the turn on of the remote, just in case it starts too loud.

The resistance that the 100k would need to bring it down to ~25k is 33k
You can add this resistor to the pot itself, from wiper to signal ground.

It would be worth experimenting with this resistor value.
You might not need it at all or it could work better at a high or lower value.
 
Mm, ok. I'll try and find a 25k one.

So I've snooped around the forum here and googled a bit aswell and I have come up with a BOM for my B1 build. It contains some alternatives, questions and all sorts of uneducated stuff :) I would be most appreciative if someone would look over it. Perhaps shed some light on the stuff I don't know. Perhaps even pimp the components abit as I am not sure if these are the recomended brands. They seem quite cheap, so if there are some more blinged out components out there it would certainly add to the cool-factor but within reason and most preferably -as stock First Watt B1- as possible.

Anyone who has built this before, or even anyone who knows this game better than myself are welcome to help me out :) I know it's a bit to ask, but I greatly appreciate your efforts, however small or big.

So here goes, my BOM:

[FONT=Segoe Script, sans-serif]PASS DIY [/FONT]


[FONT=Segoe Script, sans-serif]FIRST WATT B1 BOM[/FONT]




[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]@passdiy.com:[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*B1 PCB + 4 matched JFETS Pass DIY: Order Form $53,- (incl.ship)[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]@digikey.com:[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*6stk Digi-Key - CMF1.00MHFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF551M0000FHEB) NOK.6.48,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*4stk Digi-Key Part Search NOK.4.08,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*2stk Digi-Key - CMF221KHFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF55221K00FHEB) NOK.2.04,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*2stk Digi-Key - CMF10.0KHFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF5510K000FHEB) NOK.2.04,-[/FONT]




[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk Digi-Key - CMF15.0KHFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF5515K000FHEB) NOK.1.02,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk Digi-Key - P1.0W-3BK-ND (Manufacturer - ERX-3SJ1R0) NOK.3.89,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk Digi-Key - BC2076-ND (Manufacturer - BFC241671005) NOK.16.50,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*2stk Digi-Key - P6890-ND (Manufacturer - ECO-S1EP153BA) NOK.42.82,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk Digi-Key - 1N914BCT-ND (Manufacturer - 1N914BTR) NOK.1.02,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk Digi-Key - CP-037A-ND (Manufacturer - PJ-037A) NOK.5.03,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk Digi-Key Part Search NOK.53.02,- [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif](other options ? )[/FONT]




[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]@parts-express.com: (can this be sourced elsewhere ? )[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*2stk Jantzen 1.0uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor | Parts-Express.com $3.44,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*2stk Jantzen 10uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor | Parts-Express.com $11.76,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*1stk DPDT Mini Toggle Center Off | Parts-Express.com $1.75,-[/FONT]






[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]What are these ? : [/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Precsion Resistive Products PR9372 audio series reesistor[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Dayton Audio DFFC-0.47 0.47uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor | Parts-Express.com[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Where to get Volume pot 25k?[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Enclosure, knobs, RCA, feet/isolation device etc.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]@partsconnexion.com[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif](Needed? : VAMPIRE BP-.5 ground post, $9.00,- each)[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*RCA: 3 pairs (2 in / 1 out) http://www.partsconnexion.com/product7493.html[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]$6.55,- pair[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*Feet 4stk VIBRAPOD Cone-shaped Isolation Device (Sold as Each) $32.00,-[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*Knobs alternatives:[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*( Wooden knobs, perhaps? Wooden knobs )[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]* http://www.partsconnexion.com/product3570.html $15.95,-[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]* http://www.partsconnexion.com/product8534.html [/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]* Knobs ConneX 28mm D, Champagne Anodized Aluminum $11.95,-Knobs ConneX 28mm D, Clear Anodized Aluminum[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Enclosure: What size would be sufficient?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]modushop.biz[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]modushop.biz[/FONT]




[FONT=Segoe Script, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*DPDT Toggle Switch for Input. What is this? Instead of knob? [/FONT][/FONT]


[FONT=Segoe Script, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Power Supply: (options/suggestions)[/FONT][/FONT]


[FONT=Segoe Script, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Velleman 1A POWER SUPPLY KIT: Designnotes.com $14.30,-[/FONT][/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Where to get 1x24V 35VA trafo for the Velleman PSU? Other options?[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Alt. [/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/149672-universal-power-supply-pcb.html ?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Alt.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Amazon.com: Energizer XP18000 Rechargeable Power Pack for Laptops: Electronics [/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Will this work? Other suggestions? If this is good enough (9-12v and 16-20v output) what would I need to connect it to the B1?[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]*Standalone psu-enclosure:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Aluminum Project Box Enclousure Case Electronic DIY_Mid - eBay (item 250597854445 end time Mar-10-11 17:14:50 PST) [/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]What types of cords/plugs and such would I need to go with this solution?[/FONT]






---------


If I have broken any forum rules (some of which, sadly enough, are often forgettable) by linking to the suppliers, I appologize aforehand.




So, any suggestions?
 

6L6

Moderator
Joined 2010
Paid Member
Looking at your BOM, it looks good so far.

A couple of things -

25k pot -- Digi-Key - KKA2531S28-ND (Manufacturer - KKA2531S28)

DPDT switch for input selection -- Digi-Key - 450-1304-ND (Manufacturer - MTA206N)

Poly caps for signal (if you want to source something appropriate from Digi-Key) -- 10uf -- Digi-Key - EF2106-ND (Manufacturer - ECQ-E2106KF)

1uf -- Digi-Key - EF2105-ND (Manufacturer - ECQ-E2105KF)

Also, the Jantzen caps are Danish - Jantzen Audio Denmark - Leading coil and inductor manufacturer in Europe They also have many grades of capacitors, it's worth a look.

You asked what are these - "Precision Resistive Products PR9372 audio series"
It is a series of 1/2 watt 1% metal film resistors. I used them in my Pearl project, they are very nice.

My B1 thread may give you some ideas about powersupply. - However, know that there are many good answers, not just mine! http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/181552-b1-preamp-build-thread.html
 
A good remote volume control and software was published on Microcontroller.net. I have used this circuit in my Balanced Zen Line stage. In case you need several inputs, the microcontroller offers TTL signals that can be used to switch small reed relays. It can be combined e.g. with this schematic.
It is also fine to use a DAC for switching inputs and the B1 for volume control.
Martin

 

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6L6

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So judging by the pic of your PCB, one of each?

One of your links is broken, but I think you are asking about the 1uf and 10uf film caps. You need (two) 10uf, and (two or three) 1uf ... see below.

These suggestions are if you would like to buy something appropriate from Digi-Key.

If you look at the schematic on PassDIY, the caps would be in position C100, C200 and C101 and C201.

However - these caps are the most 'subjective' in sound, and you might want to put fancy audiophile caps in these positions.

The 1uf Panasonic is ideal at position C3, as it is being used as a power supply bypass.

Look at this photo of the Pass PCB, the big blue caps are Jantzen Z-cap 10uf in position C101, C201. The small blues are 1uf Jantzen in position C100, C200, On the left edge, above the 1uf blue is a dark orange cap, it is a 1uf panasonic in position C3
DSCF3532.jpg
 
Thanks 6L6.

That 1uF Panasonic bypass cap, I can't seem to find it anywhere. You don't happen to have the manufacturers partnr, would you? Or perhaps any other decent alternatives. Could I use the same Jantzens in C3 as in C100 & C200 ?

Also, the volume pot. I found a great site (hificollective.co.uk) and they carry all sorts of goodies. How crucial is it that I stick with the recomended 25K, what would happen if I used 10K or 50K?

I have another question. (They never end, do they? :) )

I have my mind set on using the Velleman K1823 for power, but I can't find a suitable tranny for for it.
In the manual by Pass, he states digikey nr
BC2076-ND for C3, C100, C200. So why not use Jantzen's 1uF in them all? Could it be any 1uF?

 

6L6

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Joined 2010
Paid Member
That 1uF Panasonic bypass cap, I can't seem to find it anywhere. You don't happen to have the manufacturers partnr, would you?

The 1uf in my earlier posts are the Panasonic! :D :) Part number ECQ-E2105KF http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=EF2105-ND

Could I use the same Jantzens in C3 as in C100 & C200 ?

Yes. You will need to mount C3 soldier-style as the board is fairly tight in that area.

Also, the volume pot. I found a great site (hificollective.co.uk) and they carry all sorts of goodies. How crucial is it that I stick with the recomended 25K, what would happen if I used 10K or 50K?

50K will be fine.

I have another question. (They never end, do they? :) )

No problem! That is why the forum exists!

I have my mind set on using the Velleman K1823 for power, but I can't find a suitable tranny for for it.

The Velleman K1823 uses a LM317 regulator in a 'classic' way, using the circuit from the regulator's datasheet. That is what I did in my B1, and it sounds great!

The English-language manual for that kit has lots of info on suitable input voltages for desired output... http://www.vellemanusa.com/downloads/0/illustrated/illustrated_assembly_manual_k1823_rev3.pdf

The B1 is designed for an operational voltage of 18-24v. According to Velleman, you would need a 24vac transformer to get an output voltage of 18-22v DC.

The B1 uses such a small current that you may use just about any transformer you can find, you could take a "wall-wart" mains adapter and hook it up directly, or open it and savage the transformer from the inside.

I used a transformer from Avel-Lindberg, with a 15VA rating and it is fine. Transformers and Power Converters From Avel Lindberg, Inc. In your case the Y236005 (22v is close enough) would be suitable. It has dual primaries (you can use it with 220v mains current) and then parallel the secondaries into the regulator input.
 
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Thank you again 6L6.

So, would this be ok? : https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/elfa/init.do?item=56-132-86&toc=18841 or am I totally off? It's not all that important either, come to mind, I can ask the supplier of the K1823 to ship a suitable tranny when I order :)

Updated my BOM with the C3 Panasonic & Alps Blue Velvet 50K pot.

Also, are the two LED-parts really needed? I really don't see a use for them if they don't have any other function than emitting a light. (D1 & D2).

I THINK i have all bases covered, except the chassis. I'll most likely order one from modushop and have them drill the holes I need in the front and back. Does anyone know if 23cm x 23cm is ok, or will that perhaps be abit tight? 8cm in height (approx. 3-4").
 

6L6

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Joined 2010
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The transformer you selected is appropriate. Parallel the secondaries into the input jacks on the Velleman regulator.

Only one diode is a light. The other is a voltage reference.

FirstWattB1.jpg


As you can see, D2 is the LED, because it is the diode symbol with the 2 arrows near it, meaning light. D1 is an important part of the powersuppply. If you want to eliminate the LED, you may also omit R4. I, personally, would keep it.

The chassis you want should be big enough. Remember that you can mount the regulator or transformer on the chassis sides if things get tight!
 
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Nice! Awestrikingly fast reply there, 6L6 :) Then I'll keep the LED, might aswell drill a tiny hole for it above the power switch. I plan on using an opposite faceplate of the original, with two switches and a volume knob in the middle of them, one beeing on of, the other beeing line 1 & 2. An LED would look good next to one of the switches :) Hope I can pull this off. I have ordered a cheap Cmoy kit and an additional Cmoy pcb to get some solder practice first :)
Should I use for excample Mundorf silver solder on the internal wires? And what the hell kind of wires do I get...and where? My searches come up empty....

Yes, what would noobs (and everyone else) do without this place :)
 

6L6

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Nice! Awestrikingly fast reply there, 6L6

I'm in front of my computer surfing, as my 16 month old son is currently asleep.

Expensive wire is just that - expensive.

I have no idea where to source a few 25ft spools of wire. I buy mine at the surplus stores. Do you have an equivalent of Radioshack in Norway? You need something like this - 75-Ft. UL-Recognized Hookup Wire (22AWG) - RadioShack.com

What suppliers are you buying from? If you are getting something from a DIY audio business, they will most likely be able to help you.

As for solder, just get some good 60/40 pb/sn solder. Silver solder exists for metallurgy reasons, not quality.
 
Yeah, I browsed the Norwegian netshops, but no luck. One of them have a hopeless menusystem. I'll just send them an email when I'm I'm getting the other stuff. The other parts I'll get from digikey, partsconnexion, mouser (D1 & D2, couldnt find them on digikey), and some locally.

Guess I'm all set and ready to order stuff, then :)

Thanks again. I'll probably need som help with the build also, when the time comes, but that's another thread :)
 
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