How to build the F5

6L6

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...Well, this thread will be how I build mine. :)

Nothing out of the ordinary, Peter Daniel boards, single transformer, Tech-DIY transistors and other bits, HiFi2000 chassis.

I have collected all the pieces and finally today the chassis arrived from Italy! I am ready to start!

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Here is the obligatory "armory" photo. Only one of the amp channels shown.

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The rear panel. I thought I ordered an Inlet Module with a switch, but I didn't read the datasheet well enough, and it has a neon light power indicator instead. Oh well. Luckily I have a couple of nice bat-handeled switches, I will use one here. The Jacks and RCAs are also from my box, I think they are Vampire.

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Here are the contents of the Tech-DIY F5 kits, the Peter Daniel's boards, and a couple of silpads. I also have micas and grease, I will most likely use those.

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The PSU components. Vishay rectifier blocks, Peter Daniel PSU board, resistors, 33,000uf capacitors, CL-60 thermistors, and a big-honkin' 600VA transformer.

When I was determining the transformer size necessary I must have had a brain-sneeze, I must have only thought of one secondary! :D Oh well, it was only $20 more than the 'proper' (400VA) size. The 4-pin caps will work on the board with just a bit of modification.

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If you were wondering, the Peter Daniel boards are very small. Also very nice!

That's it for now, I will post more photos as I progress.
 
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Good luck with the build you'll enjoy it went its finished. Mine has been in use for the past couple of days and to be quite honest has been worth the effort; sounds pretty good. I was expecting to have to turn my DCB1 up to max after using an Aleph 5 but the difference in setting is minimal.
HiFi 2000 make good kit don't they. I used there front; top and base panels with sinks sourced in the UK; should just have bought one of there full kits.
Setting the trim pots threw me to start with; I had'nt realised that there interaction would be so intimate.
 
You've obviously put a lot of thought into the choice of components and the case. Why use such an agricultural ON/OFF switch ?

I've got a similar thread running with my F4 build. Even though my ON/OFF switch is hidden at the back of the amplifier I have taken a bit of trouble to make it look nice.

The rear view

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/594/dscf2361c.jpg

I used a Personal Computer ON/OFF push switch that will cope with the high transient currents of massive Toroidal Transformers.

This is the case before painting and filling.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/82/dscf2363p.jpg
 
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6L6

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You've obviously put a lot of thought into the choice of components and the case. Why use such an agricultural ON/OFF switch ?

Well... I'm actually not married to using that switch. It does have a very nice feel, however. And it will be on the back, so nobody will ever see it.

I wouldn't mind a blue-ringed flush pushbutton, but I haven't the foggiest notion of where to find one. That would look nice on the front panel.

And, when it's all said and done, the switching will be done on a power conditioner, not the amp itself. So having the switch in back (which was always the plan, even with the Inlet Module) will not be an issue.
 
I wouldn't mind a blue-ringed flush pushbutton, but I haven't the foggiest notion of where to find one.
Try eBay, plenty there, but expensive...

And, when it's all said and done, the switching will be done on a power conditioner, not the amp itself.
Are you switching more than 1 power hungry device with the power conditioner? Watch out for in-rush current. You can try using older style under CRT monitor power managers, that have dedicated switch per outlet.

I see you are not a big fan of fuses...

Going to be a nice looking build.
 

6L6

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Are you switching more than 1 power hungry device with the power conditioner? Watch out for in-rush current.

Actually, if you put one big draw on the main switch, and the other big draw on a timed switch (which my conditioner has) it's not a problem.

I see you are not a big fan of fuses...

I see that you are not familiar with fused power inlet modules... :)

Going to be a nice looking build.

Thanks, I am hoping so!
 
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If you are looking for a silver push button switch with blue illumination I believe the Bulgin would have what you are looking for.
They aren't rated for what you are trying to do, which is the entire idea behind the Epsilon 24 from Ti Kan. The ε24 Power Switch Driver Circuit

I am using one of those with a black Lamptron switch, its basically a clone of the Bulgin switch only it is available in black and made of Delrin plastic instead of stainless steel.

I have all the parts for my F5, now I just have to start putting it together.
 

6L6

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I'm thinking something like this -

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The trick will be finding one that can take the current... adding a relay board to make a switch work in a circuit is just not my idea of elegant engineering, although I can see some applications of that circuit where it would be very nice.
 
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I'm thinking something like this -

!CE(6j-gBGk~$(KGrHqF,!l8E1Fw8)RhIBNRsL)vrgQ~~0_12.JPG


The trick will be finding one that can take the current... adding a relay board to make a switch work in a circuit is just not my idea of elegant engineering, although I can see some applications of that circuit where it would be very nice.

Thats what I used but it only switches power to a soft start board which switches the amp on through relays.
 
I'm thinking something like this -

%21CE%286j-gBGk%7E$%28KGrHqF,%21l8E1Fw8%29RhIBNRsL%29vrgQ%7E%7E0_12.JPG


The trick will be finding one that can take the current... adding a relay board to make a switch work in a circuit is just not my idea of elegant engineering, although I can see some applications of that circuit where it would be very nice.

i believe that's the bulgin rated 3a @ 250v , early in the f5 thread it was mentioned by a few people that were using them .BULGIN|MP0045/1E2BL012|SWITCH, PUSHBUTTON, DPDT-2CO, | Newark.com

and thanks for starting this thread , i'm waiting for parts to start building mine .

cheers Woody
 
I'm thinking something like this -

!CE(6j-gBGk~$(KGrHqF,!l8E1Fw8)RhIBNRsL)vrgQ~~0_12.JPG


The trick will be finding one that can take the current... adding a relay board to make a switch work in a circuit is just not my idea of elegant engineering, although I can see some applications of that circuit where it would be very nice.

I bought a switch looking like that for my F5. Got it from Audiophonics - Câbles, Amplificateurs et Accessoires DIY, it is rated at 250VAC 5A,
 
Re: "I wouldn't mind a blue-ringed flush pushbutton, but I haven't the foggiest notion of where to find one. That would look nice on the front panel."

Consider taking a ride in an elevator, and bring along a set of Allen wrenches. There are a lot of indirectly-lit pushbuttons available in the elevator cab (depends, of course, on how many floors the building has)!

Kidding aside (ahem)..... Belkin and a number of other companies make ringed pushbutton switches. Dry the Newark Electronics catalog, or perhaps Digi-Key. A word of caution--most of these switches are "momentary contact", and you'd be looking for "latching on-off" (unless, of course, you enjoy listening to very SHORT passages of music). You can get around the "momentary" action by purchasing a latching bi-stable relay to use, with a momentary switch (just costs a little more).

6L6--I'm down the road in Colorado Springs, also launching into an F5 build, with Conrad heatsinks and a scratch built chassis cabinet. I'll get some photos posted, in the not-so-distant-future....

P.S. I was only partly kidding about the "elevator buttons". I actually found a supplier of elevator parts in Florida, who sold these switches are bargain prices....... as "elevator salvage".