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Old 10th February 2011, 01:51 AM   #31
eyoung is offline eyoung  United States
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tell me where you get aircraft grade wire I have been using marine grade more strands and 105c insulation. What is aircraft???

regards, El
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Old 10th February 2011, 03:07 AM   #32
labjr is offline labjr  United States
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I believe aircraft wire is the same as mil spec hookup wire. It's Teflon insulated tinned copper wire. For some reason it has less strands than the 105c PVC insulated appliance wire. Not that it will work any differently in the F5 but it looks cool. And the insulation won't burn back when you heat it. I got some on ebay and some from a couple of electronic surplus stores.
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Old 10th February 2011, 12:43 PM   #33
cjkpkg is offline cjkpkg  United States
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Lookin good Jim!
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Old 10th February 2011, 09:15 PM   #34
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Throughly mundane update...

As mentioned earlier I needed to get a few more things before proceeding with the build.

Click the image to open in full size.
Specifically, wire, connectors, standoffs, spacers, and a tap set. (also a couple of ther things not photographed.)

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As I am not exactly sure what will be the best standoff/spacer, I bought an assortment. Brass, Nylon, and 'real' 6-32 thread standoffs. Also shown are the 1/4" connector spades, the 6-32 bolts and fender washers for mounting the power transistors.
Also note the Power Inlet module now has a switch!

Not photographed is a big pile of 4-40 hardware for mounting the boards, as well as a few more 6-32 bolts for the rectifier blocks and barrier strip.

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The store I went to didn't have taps without the drill bits, but since they are the exact size for the tap, I didn't see any disadvantage in getting them.

Click the image to open in full size.
Trying to detemine the best layout for the bottom panel. The Transformer is positioned in the front of the case.

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I like this better, it will lead to more symmetrical wiring. Which although not necessary, appeals to me.

If I had the 400mm deep chassis I would also have the power inlet and the barrier strip on the centerline.

I think it is a good idea to leave the chassis vents unobstructed, to keep the heat exchange/airflow as good as possible.

Last edited by 6L6; 10th February 2011 at 09:25 PM. Reason: 34/1807
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Old 10th February 2011, 11:56 PM   #35
cjkpkg is offline cjkpkg  United States
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I like option 2 as well...be mindful of a couple things - I learned the hard way...

1. placement of the feet
2. placement of the input jacks and speaker terminals...assuming they are going on the back panel.
3. orientation of the top and bottom...there is a "front" and "back"

I kept the AC power inlets towards the bottom more in the center area. I put the RCA jacks and speaker terminals high and more outboard.
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Old 11th February 2011, 12:12 AM   #36
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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There is a back and a front? That is very good to know!!! (And I am not being sarcastic, I honestly hadn't noticed yet.)

I was planning on mounting the feet to see about various fastener clearances, but I will also look at placements of everything with them installed.

My plan was to put the power module off center and low near the barrier strip. (As you suggest) The audio inputs and outputs will be arranged in a symmetrical pattern centered on the back plate.

Last edited by 6L6; 11th February 2011 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 11th February 2011, 01:10 AM   #37
cjkpkg is offline cjkpkg  United States
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one more gotcha...on the back you will notice that the lip of the top and bottom pieces "curl" over the back panel about 0.25" or so...make sure to give the power, RCA's and speaker terminals enough clearance...the end where the lip of the top/bottom goes all the way across is the back.

I was drilling the back of my Moskido VERY late one night...and maybe after a couple homebrews...ended up having to massively oversize the speaker terminal holes so that back lip of the top panel would sit properly...barely noticeable but I know its there...

Last edited by cjkpkg; 11th February 2011 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 11th February 2011, 01:24 AM   #38
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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Good to know. I wasn't planning on having any holes within an inch of the edges/lip, but that is still good info to have on hand. Thanks!
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Old 11th February 2011, 10:37 AM   #39
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
The store I went to didn't have taps without the drill bits, but since they are the exact size for the tap, I didn't see any disadvantage in getting them.
the size of the tapping drill determines the thread engagement.
You can use a variety of different drill sizes for the one tap to produce different thread engagements.
Aluminium tends to use a smaller drill than for mild steel. Higher strength materials may use an even bigger drill size.

Use a high pressure lubricant for tapping (and drilling), although according to one Member I know nothing about tapping lubricants.
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Old 11th February 2011, 01:46 PM   #40
flg is offline flg  United States
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6L6, How would you feel if I were to also document my F5 build on your thread. I do not want to hijack or aything but, I'm at about the same stage as you are and another point of veiw I think would be good for at least the new Bs.
I have a dual output Toshiba MOSFET version in the works using CViller boards from the Forum (I guess thats second rev?). I'll be using HeatSink USA 10.08" heat Sinks and building a chasis/case mostly out of 3/4" oak. It will resemble a radio from the '40s when completed. I'm using 19V rails from a 400VA Xfrmr/ch, with a CRC filter.
I guess I could get off my butt and get some photo's?
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