Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Pass Labs

Pass Labs This forum is dedicated to Pass Labs discussion.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 8th February 2011, 10:00 PM   #21
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleaman View Post
Nice Build so far, any more pictures ?
Nothing very exciting at this moment. I am going through my boxes looking for and sorting hardware. Bolts mainly. #4-40 and #6-32. I am making a list for (hopefully) the last run to the electronics surplus store, I need a few very mundane things -- standoffs for the circuit boards, some heavier wire in different colors than I have here, some of those connector tab things for the IEC inlet and switch (and rectifier blocks).

I need to buy 2 thread taps, the aforementioned 4-40 and 6-32.

Question - do you need a insulating shoulder washer for the hole of a TO-247? Or can you just but a bolt straight through? Obviously you need a silpad or mica on the bottom of the case...

With the standoffs and the taps I can place everything and start drilling. Once the mechanical is complete then the rest will start shaping up very quickly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAm man
There are a lot of indirectly-lit pushbuttons available in the elevator cab (depends, of course, on how many floors the building has)!
I actually like that idea... But those buttons always seem to be orange...

The thread has taken a heck of a digression down the 'fancy power switch' path, which I am going to ignore for awhile... I will use the bat-handle I have on the back panel, and if I do happen across something that really trips my trigger, I will get it and put it in later. As it would be on the front panel, and it (the panel) is easily separated from the rest of the chassis, doing it later will be no problem.

Anyway, I have a couple of ideas for the front panel, I really like the blue back-lit "F5" like some members have done. Regardless, I am not going to worry about it for awhile.
__________________
Illustrated Build Guides - Pass F4 - Pass B1 - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - O2 HPA - Hagerman Bugle 2 - Pass Aleph J - Me at BA '13
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th February 2011, 11:03 PM   #22
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Marblehead Ma
6L6 , if you don't mind my inquiring about your hifi2000 case .

1 model #

2 cost

3 shipping time

i'm in the process of deciding on heat sinks and even though i have the skills to fabricate a case , when all is said and done , a ready made might be the better , more cost effective way to go .

cheers , Woody
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th February 2011, 11:24 PM   #23
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Connecticut
Default Mouser also carries those power switches

Mouser also carries those Bulgin switches:
MP0045/1E2BL012 Bulgin Pushbutton Switches
I used one in a gainclone/USB DAC I built a couple years back - I wired the contacts in parallel.
gaincard-usbdac - mpbarneyamps
Looking forward to seeing your F5 build!
Mike
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2011, 12:12 AM   #24
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody1911a1 View Post
1 model #
"Pesante Dissipante 4U depth 300 mm" (6 1/2" tall x 11 3/4" deep x 19" wide) Which will have a different specific number depending on color and faceplate thickness. I needed to get the shallow(300mm) case, if you have the room for it, get the 400mm deep.

Quote:
2 cost
$230.00 Exchange rate is at time of order. It was something like 104.00 with 60.00 for shipping.

Quote:
3 shipping time
Ok, this is what sucks, basically a month. It was just a bit shy of that for me. The funny thing is that the delay wasn't Poste Italia, but the time it sat lingering in customs. I didn't know it was going to be that long, and it made the wait unbearable! If I had known, it wouldn't have been so bad.

Quote:
when all is said and done , a ready made might be the better , more cost effective way to go
That was my idea as well... metal projects like this can get out of control very quickly if you don't have access to good tools, a good place to get scrap and cuttings, and a heatsink lined up. I thought about it for awhile, and realized that knowing the exact cost ahead of time is much better than a rat-race and indeterminate $$ trying to get all the necessary parts. Although $230 seems like a lot of money for a chassis, but it really isn't, when you consider the savings in BS.

Also, it is worth saying that the case is very, very nice.
__________________
Illustrated Build Guides - Pass F4 - Pass B1 - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - O2 HPA - Hagerman Bugle 2 - Pass Aleph J - Me at BA '13
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2011, 01:39 AM   #25
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Santa Rosa Beach, FL
Re edge-lit pushbuttons and "I actually like that idea... But those buttons always seem to be orange..." True story! It seems as though only the "higher end" hotels are using the blue ones these days. (LOL....)

Re: Taps--to save yourself a few trips, you might want to buy several in each size, and some tapping/cutting oil all in one trip--they typically are cheaper than the price of gas for the car (and multiple trips). There was a good, lengthy discussion on tapping Conrad (and other) heatsinks late last year in the forum.

You mentioned an electronics surplus store--I'm assuming in Denver. Can you share a name? I'm in Colorado Springs, and use "OEM Parts" down here--quite a collection of everything, if you have the time to weed through all the boxes and cubbyholes.



Anyway, I have a couple of ideas for the front panel, I really like the blue back-lit "F5" like some members have done. Regardless, I am not going to worry about it for awhile.[/QUOTE]
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2011, 02:32 AM   #26
Lerg is offline Lerg  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
I think the vast array of choices and solutions is part of the fun of a project of this nature.
I chose the relay solution because it opened up switch choices, and it has the added benefit of keeping AC power away from the front panel. Less chance of noise/hum due to poor assembly from a poor assembler.

I hope to see more pictures of your progress soon.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2011, 06:17 AM   #27
ENSen is offline ENSen  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
The switch I bought is not momentary. Push once - on, push again - off.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2011, 02:50 PM   #28
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAm Man View Post
You mentioned an electronics surplus store--I'm assuming in Denver. Can you share a name?

Happily! J.B. Saunders -- although it's in Boulder...

JB Saunders Electronic Components, Test Equipment, Surplus


Here in Denver Fistells is still open, but they don't really have much that's worthwhile... (even though they have mountains of junk)
__________________
Illustrated Build Guides - Pass F4 - Pass B1 - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - O2 HPA - Hagerman Bugle 2 - Pass Aleph J - Me at BA '13
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th February 2011, 03:44 PM   #29
labjr is offline labjr  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MA
Nothing wrong with a toggle switch. I got a Nikkai 25 AMP toggle switch for my F5. Japanese made. Feels better than all the cheap rocker switches I as considering.

For AC and Power supply I'm using assorted colors of 14 & 16 gauge aircraft grade teflon insulated wire.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th February 2011, 01:44 AM   #30
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
diyAudio Member
 
6L6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, Colorado
Well, no pictures at this moment but a little progress...

I traveled to Boulder (an easy 35min drive for me) to J.B Saunders and bought the remaining parts necessary.

Standoffs, wire, a bunch of those spade-things for the tabs on the rectifiers and IEC inlet that I don't know the name of. A couple of blue LEDs (obligatory, obviously...) and a ground lug for my Pearl Phono.

AC switch - remember how I mentioned that the Inlet Module I ordered had a lamp instead of a switch? The lamp is a snap-in component, and they happened to have a 15 amp switch that fits into the module! So that makes it exactly what I was after all along. That said, it doesn't have a great feel like the toggle...

Now I need to run to the hardware store in the morning, get a couple of taps and it's off to the races!!!!
__________________
Illustrated Build Guides - Pass F4 - Pass B1 - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - O2 HPA - Hagerman Bugle 2 - Pass Aleph J - Me at BA '13
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another F5 build--beautiful music, different drummer CanAm Man Pass Labs 144 7th March 2013 09:41 PM
Transistors and Resistors for F5 Amp Build NYCOne Swap Meet 0 20th December 2010 04:29 AM
Next suggested build after F5 anilva Pass Labs 36 3rd December 2010 04:11 AM
F5 Build Instructions 1108 Pass Labs 4 12th May 2009 10:58 PM
Planning an F5 build - some beginner questions njepitt Pass Labs 144 15th March 2009 11:55 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:12 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2