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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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#12 |
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Lightning In A Bottle
diyAudio Member
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Is there a fender washer (smaller hole) version of these?
__________________
Leap into the Warpspeed wormhole... http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/warpspeed/1.html |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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IMHO, a Belleville washer (or conical waher) first appears to be the ideal solution, in that it exerts pressure uniformly around the perimeter, which is not the case for the humble spring washer. However, if you would tighten a screw with a conical washer till flush (totally flattened), and then release it again, you would find that the conical washer would have been deformed and lost a sigificant proportion of its conicity (and hence the ability to generate preload force).
Or in simple English, a conical washer should never be tightened till flush, but only be tightened using some form or torque control, so that it is given the right preload within its designed working range. Disc Springs to DIN 2093 (Note stress level vs deflection) Heavy Duty Bolting Washers Patrick |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Just to confirm the earlier comments on the difference between "shakeproof" and "constant load" washers.
The split washer, the serrated washer and similar are to prevent an improperly tightened nut/bolt/set screw from vibrating off. Similar to self locking nuts. The "Belleville" washer is one type of constant load type fixing. It is designed as an elastic "spring" between the underside of the nut/head and the device to be clamped. A stack of Bellevilles can be used to arrive at different spring ratings. Two Bellevilles one inside the other has roughly double the spring rate (force change as distance changes, eg. due to temperature exapansion) and double the holding power (twice the force). Two Bellevilles facing in opposite directions have half the spring rate and the same holding power. Combinations of opposite and same direction series Bellevilles can achieve many different loads and stiffnesses. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I expect the split washer will need too much pressure to have an evenly load, and not good
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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the split washer needs very little force to squeeze to flat.
As the fixing slackens off the two cut edges expand out and dig into the surfaces to prevent further unscrewing. By this stage the fixing is "loose" with very little clamping load. The split washer has done it's job. It stops the joint falling apart and the nut/bolt falling out. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Santa Rosa Beach, FL
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All,
Just my two cents. Consider using a thread-locking compound, such as Locktite 243. We routinely build high-performance road racing engines that rely upon accurate and reliable fasteners, to endure through many heat cycles, and under the worst condidtions. We would not assemble a $50,000 engine without the use of Locktite on critical fasteners. I'll be using it on my F5 MOSFET machine screws. If you use it, just be careful--a little goes a long way, and avoid getting it on the heatsink base or the heatconducting substrate of the MOSFET. I have never considered the "thermal impedance" of Locktite, but I'd assumine it's not a good conductor of heat. |
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#18 |
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The one and only
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#19 |
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expert in tautology
diyAudio Member
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The split one is commonly called a "split ring lockwasher"... fwiw. At least it is around this part of the NE USA...
There are also internal and external tooth lockwashers... I've never had a problem with screws holding output devices getting loose when properly torqued and using a "tooth" type lockwasher on the nut side. I also use a small washer to spread the down force on metal tab type transistors, not on older TO-3 type metal packages. Locking compound would not hurt... I guess... the Belleville washers are nice... but I personally have never needed to use them... _-_-bear PS. if only a 4-40 size was the available through hole (a plastic pak that can't be drilled) I'd add a bar to hold the entire face of the plastic pak device as well... talking F5 sized power devices, not <5watt plastic paks...
__________________
_-_-bear http://www.bearlabs.com [...2SJ74 Toshiba bogus asian parts - beware! ] -- Btw, I don't actually know anything, FYI --
Last edited by bear; 10th December 2010 at 09:54 PM. |
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