Drilling and tapping Conrad heatsinks

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No doubt if you have CNC equipment or so and tools for them you can make holes and threads in one shot. But most DIYers have regular drill press (if any), regular bits and taps they can buy in nearest store. I used those regular tools to build three amps and two pre-amps - no problem. And I made all holes and threads (including blind holes with threads) without a super cutting oil, spiral taps or other fancy equipment. I'm not in a rush to make 100 holes/minute.

Take a look at the video in the link in the earlier post, and you'll se a fairly basic manual milling machine, and the feed controlled by hand.

Most of what I do these days, I actually do on manual machines/drill-presses.

The reason why I make this reply, is not for the sake of the argument, but rather that I fail to grasp that spending less than 100$ once and for all, is considered an issue, compared to tiresome work and lower quality of the end result?

Making holes and threads in one shot, does not only make for an easier job, but also for a better result, and is surely not a problem to do, even by hand, if the right tools and methods are used.


Magura :D
 
Hello,
I never had a post snipped and quoted so many times.
I told a machinist friend of my difficulties tapping 6-32 threads in aluminum. He gave me a box of 12 Union Butterfield 2 flute taps. Using the same lube as before and many tapped holes later I have yet to break another tap. The only difference was the tool.
DT
All Just for fun!
 
Hey guys..... I found the perfect solution, this morning. I was able to TIG weld the MOSFETS to the heatsinks. Lots of smoke (and some flame) from the plastic portion of the MOSFET packages, but I don't think that's a problem.... Is it?

(OK. OK..... Just kidding! THanks for all the advice and comments.
 
Hey guys..... I found the perfect solution, this morning. I was able to TIG weld the MOSFETS to the heatsinks. Lots of smoke (and some flame) from the plastic portion of the MOSFET packages, but I don't think that's a problem.... Is it?

(OK. OK..... Just kidding! THanks for all the advice and comments.

Hello,
You got me thinking. GTAW as you say may be too hot.
How about solder/flux shim stock with just the right engineered melting point installed between the clean heat sink and the IC all mechanically held together with a self tapping screw. After all the parts are held together apply a load until the overload in the IC kicks in, the solder will fuse. Once the solder has fused the contact between the heat sink and IC is complete, the self tapping screw has done its’ job and the thermal overload is also looking for a job!
DT
All Just for fun!
 
I did fair number of #6-32 blind holes last week (66). Used one spiral fluted tap for all the wholes and just some WD-40. I was out of rubbing alcohol which works well and is cheap, but I was to lazy to go pick some up. Anyways, go pick up a good tap and keep it straight. A tap guide can be helpful with keeping the tap straight and true to the hole and you can pick them up for a reasonable price online. Also you can always follow up tapping a hole with a bottom tap to cut the final threads if you need to. (I cheated on those 66 holes and used bridgeport to thread all of the holes.)

-naz
 
Naz, good thoughts. I did my heatsink taps last night, and survived without taking any casualties. I used a new fluted tap (bought three), and tapped all my 6-32 holes without incident. Did the same with the few 4-40 and 8-32 holes I have in my F5 chassis baseplate (3/16" aluminum). For each series, I had taken a scrap piece of aluminum block, and drilled guide holes in it for the three sizes. Then used a hand tap to tap, back out, clean, lube, etc, etc, etc. Totally uneventful. I had borrowed thread lube from a friendly machine shop buddy (and I swear the "lube" smelled like kerosine. Onward, and forward--excelsior.
 
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