Dont know if I was the only one who was slight confused about the different iterations of the board.
Anyways, the bom for 4.2 is here, and I think it is the right one.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/tea-bag/173-old-style-dcb1-information.html
Anyways, the bom for 4.2 is here, and I think it is the right one.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/tea-bag/173-old-style-dcb1-information.html
Second 100uf cap becomes small MKP type cap of .2 or .1uf, make sure it fits.
Tea-Bag, on the DCB1 Blue Hypno BOM, it says to use a film cap between 0.1uf and 10uf. How does the value of this capacitor influence the circuit? I found 0.1uf WIMA caps from Mouser with 5mm lead spacing.
Thanks
Looks like the board is slowly getting populated.
Unfortunately I managed to get a bunch of 100 perfectly matched let at 1.84 V, there is no way of putting them together to make 9V.
I am using the method suggested by Salas for matching, using the jfet as a current source. For this I assume that the battery voltage should be greater than 9 V. I am using 12V. Is it correct ?
A silly thing that happened assembling this board is the following: I recently got an LCR meter, capable of measuring also ESR. So I bought two capacitors, a Nichicon Fine Tune bla bla 100 uF and some surplus cap. The Nichicon costs 20 times more than the other.
If I measure them, the Nichicon are closer to 80uF and have 0.7 ohm of ESR, the others are around 95uF and 0.4ohm ESR.
What would you use ?
Best Regards,
Davide
Unfortunately I managed to get a bunch of 100 perfectly matched let at 1.84 V, there is no way of putting them together to make 9V.
I am using the method suggested by Salas for matching, using the jfet as a current source. For this I assume that the battery voltage should be greater than 9 V. I am using 12V. Is it correct ?
A silly thing that happened assembling this board is the following: I recently got an LCR meter, capable of measuring also ESR. So I bought two capacitors, a Nichicon Fine Tune bla bla 100 uF and some surplus cap. The Nichicon costs 20 times more than the other.
If I measure them, the Nichicon are closer to 80uF and have 0.7 ohm of ESR, the others are around 95uF and 0.4ohm ESR.
What would you use ?
Best Regards,
Davide
I'm planning to hot-rod my DCB1, and I'd like to run it at 600mA (3.3ohm resistors). I'm planning bolt the MOSFETs to a custom chassis with a 6mm thick bottom panel. The board layout doesn't really allow for mounting the rectifier diodes to the bottom panel. Do you think I could get away with running it at 600mA if I put some of these on the MUR820's I have? It isn't much, but I could bend the fins out to create a flat heat-sink.
Can the mosfets not just be desoldered, and instead mounted to the underside of the board (so bending the legs UP to fit the PCB)? I would have thought that would then easily allow it to be mounted to the chassis base, and allow that to be used as the heatsink?
- John
This is exactly what I did with my Blue Hypno; the 6mm bottom plate barely gets warm.
This is exactly what I did with my Blue Hypno; the 6mm bottom plate barely gets warm.
Ah my mistake actually - I believe he's talking about the rectifier's being the problem to mount underneath rather than the mosfets. That'll teach me to post too fast
Ah my mistake actually - I believe he's talking about the rectifier's being the problem to mount underneath rather than the mosfets. That'll teach me to post too fast
You're right John; missed that too.
Japan is a funny country: you can buy Toshiba jfet at the grocery store, but if you ask for a BC, they look you like an alien. I forgot to add BC517 to my mouser order, I have BC550 and BC560. Can I replace the 517 with something else? what are the important parameters for this part?
Thanks,
D.
Thanks,
D.
Japan is a funny country: you can buy Toshiba jfet at the grocery store, but if you ask for a BC, they look you like an alien. I forgot to add BC517 to my mouser order, I have BC550 and BC560. Can I replace the 517 with something else? what are the important parameters for this part?
Thanks,
D.
The current gain is important. Must be a Darlington. Else use that 150nF between C,B of the normal BC5xx you got. Use a small film cap and patch at board's underside.
I am going to build a hotrod version by using two boxes one is for the transformer, so my problem is the way to transfer power AC or DC?
Using DC
transformer >>> rectifiers >>> a big cap of 22000uf (I have alot of them...cheap rubicon)>>> cable 1m >>> one 4700uf (or another one 22000uf?)>>> DCB1
Is this a good configuration?
thanks
Using DC
transformer >>> rectifiers >>> a big cap of 22000uf (I have alot of them...cheap rubicon)>>> cable 1m >>> one 4700uf (or another one 22000uf?)>>> DCB1
Is this a good configuration?
thanks
feed smoothed DC between the two boxes arrangement.so my problem is the way to transfer power AC or DC?
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