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#41 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Copenhagen
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Dont know if I was the only one who was slight confused about the different iterations of the board.
Anyways, the bom for 4.2 is here, and I think it is the right one. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs...formation.html
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Perception is reality, not truth. |
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#42 | |
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Newbie
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Tea-Bag, on the DCB1 Blue Hypno BOM, it says to use a film cap between 0.1uf and 10uf. How does the value of this capacitor influence the circuit? I found 0.1uf WIMA caps from Mouser with 5mm lead spacing. Thanks |
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#43 |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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Horio,
Let me correct myself first, it's the first cap that gets replaced, not the second. Technically I am not positive what the differences are. Both are bypass caps for the IRFP Voltage Reference. The film cap seems to offer better sound. I would buy both and try both.
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Salas Boards 2013 #2 CLICK HERE | F6 Covertible PCB GB Boards Available |DCB1 boards and KITS available PM|SemiSouth R125, R100, R100A Available CLICK HERE |F5TC Boards Sign UP CLICK HERE |
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#44 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Vienna
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Looks like the board is slowly getting populated.
Unfortunately I managed to get a bunch of 100 perfectly matched let at 1.84 V, there is no way of putting them together to make 9V. I am using the method suggested by Salas for matching, using the jfet as a current source. For this I assume that the battery voltage should be greater than 9 V. I am using 12V. Is it correct ? A silly thing that happened assembling this board is the following: I recently got an LCR meter, capable of measuring also ESR. So I bought two capacitors, a Nichicon Fine Tune bla bla 100 uF and some surplus cap. The Nichicon costs 20 times more than the other. If I measure them, the Nichicon are closer to 80uF and have 0.7 ohm of ESR, the others are around 95uF and 0.4ohm ESR. What would you use ? Best Regards, Davide |
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#45 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Vienna
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By the way, I am using one 10 ohm 3W resistors (wirewound) to set the current. I expect to have around 300mA. Is it OK ?
THX, Davide |
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#46 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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More like 200mA with 10R usually. Use the 0.4 ESR.
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#47 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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if the 80uF is outside specification, send it back and demand refund.
Or Demand refund and let them collect if they think them worth retrieving. |
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#48 |
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Newbie
diyAudio Member
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I'm planning to hot-rod my DCB1, and I'd like to run it at 600mA (3.3ohm resistors). I'm planning bolt the MOSFETs to a custom chassis with a 6mm thick bottom panel. The board layout doesn't really allow for mounting the rectifier diodes to the bottom panel. Do you think I could get away with running it at 600mA if I put some of these on the MUR820's I have? It isn't much, but I could bend the fins out to create a flat heat-sink.
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#49 |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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You've got the right idea, there is not much space if you mount the TO-220's there.
If you can't get those sinks to bend that way, and my experience is that alum is not too pliable, I would use some of the 6mm chassis and 4/40 tap and just add some surface area to it.
__________________
Salas Boards 2013 #2 CLICK HERE | F6 Covertible PCB GB Boards Available |DCB1 boards and KITS available PM|SemiSouth R125, R100, R100A Available CLICK HERE |F5TC Boards Sign UP CLICK HERE |
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#50 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Can the mosfets not just be desoldered, and instead mounted to the underside of the board (so bending the legs UP to fit the PCB)? I would have thought that would then easily allow it to be mounted to the chassis base, and allow that to be used as the heatsink?
- John |
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