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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hi All,
I have some large heatsinks from modushop for my aleph project however they are anodised on all surfaces and have no machined surface for mounting of components. Is it ok to mount the fets to an anodised surface or do I need to sand a bare patch? Your advice is appreciated! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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you need to use paste or thermal pads either way. Sanding the anodization flat would get you maybe 10% more heat throughput but it's not the highest thermal resistance in the circuit, if I remember rightly. The die to package resistance is the limit in a well designed heatsink system.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Hi Swordfishy,
Do not worry about the anodising, it will have negligable effect on thermal performance (infact, depending on the colour and size it can offer an improvement.....but again, its very small) DO NOT start to sand the anodising away, you will introduce a rougher surface finish, requiring a thicker thermal pad or more thermal paste that before......and thermal pads / pastes are a thermal resistance to the link between case and sink. You will probably find the heatsink (im assuming an extrusion here) will have a surface finish in the region of RA 0.3 - 0.8 if its from a good company, such as Bluecore Heatsinks This will allow you to use as thin a thermal pad as possible (or less grease) |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Great, thanks guys.
Always like to hear that I don't need to do more work
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
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Quote:
The difference between sanding and not sanding was very clear by scratching the surface with your finger nail. Eric
__________________
My DIY Basement Theater, Aleph-X Amplifers and Avro Open Baffle Speaker construction pages. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Hi Guys,
The anodising will be microns in thickness, so I very much doubt it is leaving ridges. The ridges are more than likely coming from very cheap extrusion meathods. I am the thermal engineer at a heatsink company, and standard extrusion practises should achive RA of around 0.3 - 0.8 for a high quality extrusion, just over 1 for a standard extrusion. Both will carry a max flatness tolerance of 0.4. Our standards are used acoss mass consumer electorincs. I have attached a image of one of our heatsinks with black adnodise for your reference |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Obviously if your heatsink is badly extruded and you have excessive ridging then Erics recommendation of sanding with WD40 would help a great deal, but a heatsink should not be supplier with sure poor surface finish, especially on the thermal coupling areas.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
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Perhaps I mis-spoke. I agree that the ridges are most likely a result of the extrusion process, not the anodize process. Another set of higher quality sinks that I have are very, very smooth. Either way, the back of my sinks have ridges that are larger than they should be for good thermal contact. Sanding for just a few minutes works wonders in this situation.
__________________
My DIY Basement Theater, Aleph-X Amplifers and Avro Open Baffle Speaker construction pages. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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You could use a thick alloy plate (heat spreader) to mount the output devices on, then bolt the plate (with a little thermal paste) to the heatsink, alternatively, have the heatsink skimmed at a machine shop
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